Leaderboard

I have granda front disc with global west suspension. I lowered my upper control arms 1" (called the Shelby drop) for better handling. I have 17x 8 US Mags - Bandit rims with 4.54 backspacing up front with Nitto NT555 G2 225 x 45. I have no rubbing at all.

I have a c4 with a gear vendors and love it. The automatic mode is really all I use. Auto mode works via a control box that gets a signal from the speedo cable via the adapter that is used to connect a Ford cable to it. I'll post pics when i'm home but I mounted the on off switch on the shifter and the auto/manual switch under the dash. I changed my diff from 2.80 to 3.55 and with the gv my RPMs are basically the same. These units are basically indestructible mine came used off a few hard years of drag car duty. I had it inspected at a gv authorized shop and they said it looked fine. Sometimes you can find them on old motorhomes and medium worktrucks. I did get a custom shaft made but have no ill affects. The trans also needed to be lowered a 1/4 inch but we were able to modify the standard brace. One note I will make if you are driving it hard you do really feel the shift into OD but I find that enhances the fun.

I have the FMX also, but when I looked at the Gear Vendor, there wasn't an automatic mode. Do you know how they accomplish that? Something to think about is the need to make the driveshaft significantly shorter and how that affects driveline angles and vibrations. Instead of an AOD I intend to go with a 4R70W, which is the last version of the AOD that improved all its shortcomings. It requires an electronic transmission control and, if you're handy, it is a bolt-in conversion, but the driveshaft does need to be shortened somewhat. There is a guy that makes transmission supports and a shifter mod that allows the use of the stock shifter. If you're interested I'll find his contact information. Heres a thread on the 4R70W; https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/1965-4r70w-conversion-complete-how-to-pic-heavy.1119498/page-8

Well, getting pretty close to being caught up. Took the hood back off, as only wanted it on there to line up stripes and keep busy while waiting for engine to be done. 302 (308 now) engine installed near Christmas. finally got engine back. as written about last time everything changes. was going to rebuild engine myself then decided since its already out better go ahead and do it right. took to local shop (Dave ARCE) in San Diego. great small shop cool guys. engine was already 40 over and I did not want to go 60. he recommended just bore the cylinders as little as possible and get custom pistons cut as they only couple hundred bucks extra (sure my credit card is already gasping but I don't want to have to redo anything costing more later). He also had them put the wrist pin slightly lower to get better compression? sounded good to me. ended up 43 over with simple Edelbrock heads and a mild roller cam. Im gonna drive this nearly every day so don't need to be able to race but still want to have fun. COVID decided that everything was going to take forever to arrive so car was nearly done when engine showed up. that's ok because my garage is not big. So engine started but ran like crap and I couldn't get the timing right, called the shop and looks like the firing order is now same as 351. swapped some wires and runs like a top. below is changing plug wires and valve covers. (shiny). Backed her up to a T5 from Modern Drive line. May have to do a whole write up on only that. Those guys are AMAZING. I called MDL and the owner answered the phone. he talked with me for nearly 30 minutes. He wanted to know everything from how I plan on driving to expectations to rear end. ultimately they sent me everything INCLUDING fluid. I only had to source an actual pedal (talked about that earlier) Last thing, note the Power brake booster that I thought was a great idea and took great pains to get the clutch cable attached to. More on that later but boy do I regret that one.

Put Stripes on. Decided an off center would be different. just using vinyl strips that I cut for now. will likely paint on later. Blue tape on the cowl was to Align everything. After putting the vinyl on the cowl and looking terrible on the slots I just painted the stripe on the cowl. Also had front and back glass installed. I didn't do that as I didn't want to take a risk at messing it up. however it was pretty cheap as I had the original back glass. best part was they came to my house to do it. great news as I was worried I would have to tow it to a place.

So interior pretty much done. Had rear seat reupholstered with wider strips by local shop. Doesn't match perfectly but looks good enough to me and I'm not winning any shows, I just need a car to drive. all the panels are repo plastic and kind of flimsy compared to the original fiberglass so I lined them with sound damp material. seems to make them much more solid. Had to do new carpet as well but super worth it. Much thicker than original. had a hard time finding bolt holes so I used a cheap soldering iron and melted the holes through so permanent. Smells bad but makes intall of seats and belts so much better

Had 3.55 gear and Tloc installed. Then spent 3 days cleaning and sanding rust. Painted with eastwood rust encapsulator

Control arms in.

I hope im doing this right by clicking the reply button to update my own post bit here she is back from paint. Gonna go with the 1970 grabber u code.

Found new roller