Leaderboard

Fitting on Jims hood, Looks amazing!

Using freightquote got the shipping fully insured for 1k for $330, arrived intact thanks to your packing.

Hey Bob, mine is already mounted to the side, along with all my fuses, solenoid, and master disconnect. I think I am going to build a box of some sort that I can remove and get access to that stuff. Still pondering that, thanks for your pics.

Mine is going to paint with the entire power train in, dash out, and doors, fenders, and hood off. My body guy will then install all the body panel and line them up, then shoot the clear coat. after that, install weather stripping, and back to me . My engine compartment and undercarriage are already painted. Also, if you do this, make sure you run the engine and test for leaks. All I will do when I get the car back is bolt on trim, bumpers, lights, windows etc. No matter how careful you are, it is too easy to scratch/dent/scrape new paint when trying to install the engine. Plus the hood has to be off.

I've got a 69 convertible. It started life as a 302 w/ 3 speed manual, and at some point got a 1969 351w and a C4 transmission. Most of the work, including a well-done 4 wheel disc brake conversion and that newer C4, was probably done in the 1990's. I picked it up out of the Chicago area last year. The wheels are definitely a throwback, but I like them. The car was born in the 60's but clearly grew up in the 70's - my favorite decade. She starts and drives every time, but leaves enough for me to wrench on and improve. Here's some pictures of the car and the shop.

I ended up getting a new spacer plate that is 1/2". The old one was 1", so I should have plenty of room between the intake and the hood now. Vicfreg, you are correct, with no spacer the intake would hit the left side valve cover. Thanks for everyone's help.

Ok, I don't think I can get better information than that. Thanks!

Nice space, congrats Mike.

I'm really happy with the car. I originally had AC as a top to-do item, but we've found that our early evening drives down here in Florida are just fine without it. I suppose that if were to drive it some distance and with the top up I might see it differently. Like all things: I'll get to it eventually.....Right now I'm just squaring away some of the systems. The 351w dates to 1969. Nothing fancy, and likely a stock pick from another car. I enjoy learning the Holley carb and stock distributor. No plans to change that.....If anything is "pressing", I'd say it's the steering. I'll go through the whole thing, pump to valve body and the box. It drives fine. She'll go to 80+ easily, doesn't wander, and brakes in a straight line. But I suspect the PS is not optimal and there's a bit of play in the steering wheel. I've been at Garage Journal for some years now. One fellow led the way on in-ground scissor lifts over there. Then the photobucket debacle cost everyone a lot of build details. In 2018 I recessed an Atlas FM9SL into my garage floor and detailed it in the thread linked below. The recessed scissor lift was a fit for me because of our suburban situation here: a three car garage, with one bay as my shop and the other bay reserved for the Mrs to park in. That left the middle bay. Stem wall construction and FEMA standards resulted in a 12 foot ceiling. I wanted a two-post lift, but the thought of the wife constantly banging her door on the post and the impact on my work space drove me to look for something that would disappear when not in use. That's how I came across the recessed scissor lifts - widely used in Asia and Europe in tight spaces.....It's very capable. 9000lbs capacity. Lifts to 6 foot clearance to work under. It lifts my F-150 no problem. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/atlas-fm9sl-scissor-lift-flush-mount-install.383717/