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Fantastic! I have to say that this forum is very lucky to have you around to explain all this cra...I mean stuff...that is incomprehensible to the rest of us. Thank you!

I have given this a little thought also. I don't see why u couldn't leave stock sol. connected as is and jump the little terminal to the big one on the starter and of course put the big wire from stock sol to the big terminal on starter as it should be. What this would do for u is all power would be off starter when ignition switch is in the run position just like stock wiring was. I did connect mine as u have drawn tho and never changed it but again I think it would work and safer too incase of a hot starter wire getting burned by a hot header.

Rev 3 of How alternators work Edit, I finally replaced my old defunct analog scope with a new, much cheaper, much better digital storage oscilloscope. These things have changed dramatically with the advent of digital circuitry. They can store the waveform, take the measurements and display them, do math on them (like taking the mean) and scads of other really neat features. So I was curious what the wave looked like at our alternator’s neutral stator terminal. Turns out it’s a pretty wicked sawtooth. So now I can dispel any mystery as to how to hook-up a choke heater to the stator. I’ve also added a page on the “Radio Noise Suppression Condenser”. Edit, this site has been down for "Bandwidth Limit Exceeded" many times, so I have added a method to view the schematics and other technical documents: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing How Alternators work3.docx

I actually have mine wired this way and it works, as you would expect. (I like that it looks stock, for whatever that's worth) You're essentially running two solenoids in series and it's easy enough to bypass the old solenoid in the circuit if needed.

I sorta agree with Det0326, but for a slightly different reason. The large wire going to the starter is always hot with your diagram, and unless very well protected against chafing and pinching, just adds another line that can short out catastrophically. Your design, of course, will work, and removes the starter solenoid as a potential failure point. I'd rather have a failed starter solenoid than a dead short from battery to chassis somewhere along the way from starter solenoid to starter (think bad motor mounts and rotating engine assembly). Both failures are unlikely and/or rare, but the risk of a short can cause much more damage. I spent my last 12 years doing failure analysis, system safety, and risk assessment for Navy helicopter systems, where reliability and safety are always top priorities.

Late response but better late than never. On newer headlights it's the clearcoat failing on the lense and making the yellowing/haze. If they haze on the inside then the lights are leaking water in and that's causing the internal hazing have had this on other cars. What I did was put the headlights in the oven @ 200 degrees for about 10 minutes and separated the lens from the housing. If your lucky it will have butyl sealant and the lense will easily separate. If your not lucky they will have something spawned from the depths of HELL called permaseal. I used to do HID retrofits for my cars and friends cars. I've opened many headlights and the only permaseal headlights I ever wanted to do were ones on one of my cars. While you open them carefully avoid getting any of the sealant on the mirror side of the housing. soak your hands in warm water or give the little lady a break and wash some dishes to soften your hands. Fill a clean bucket with warm soapy dishwater like dawn and clean the lense and with VERY light pressure clean the mirror finish if you want. I usually make sure my hands are super clean and softened with warm/hot water then use my fingers to clean the surface Rinse off then use distilled water for a final rinse. Use the corners of a dry paper towel to lift off any water drops. Most of the time you can just reheat the lense and housing at the same temp/time and close it back up. If not just buy some butyl sealant.