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I cant even hear out of my left eye anymore!

You might have plenty of other pains, but not that of us in the experienced age group. Just wait, kiddo, until you are 40! Have fun while you can Danno

Two weeks ago we put our home in NJ up for sale, & today we got an offer on it for what we were asking for it. Our house in Southern Virginia that we have been renovating for the last year, short of a few ceiling fans & a couple light fixtures is ready to move into. So in about one month we will be moving out of NJ to southern Virginia just west of Martinsville in a small town called Horsepasture. The house is 1350 sq ft ranch with a full basement & a 1 car carport on 1 acre of land & has room for a 2 car garage.

what kinda rpm's u planning on running this beast? If u cut the weight off and not remove any material from flexplate it would have to be as neutral as it could be. That weight is only put on there to counter balance the crank throws. If u are afraid of it tho I would get a 0 balanced one but in the after market world that's no guarantee either. Another solution is cut the weight off and get it balanced by whoever balanced your engine. More money more money never ends does it. I sure know that feeling. Good luck with your engine.

Good catch! If I recall, the water neck with the ports is from a 70s 351M or 400ci truck engine. They are getting hard to find. I watch for them on eBay and swap meets. I'll dig up some pics of the Hyperspark bracket.

I have Street or Track Coil over set up as well. Also have the Unisteer Power steering set up and very happy with all of it. Either way, I would suggest call Shaun at Street or Track and talk to him. Great guy and knows his stuff and will not pressure you at all to buy his stuff, only provide you the info to make your decision. Good luck.

I have Street or Tracks front Coilover setup with stock power steering/spindles. Easy install, fun to drive! never went with a Rack and Pinion, because of Header selection, I Think TCP would be top tier kit to go with, other rack n pinion kits have mixed reviews.

Made a rookie mistake! I had a no start issue after wiring up my Sniper EFI with a Hyperspark Distributor, Ignition Box, and Coil on my 1970 Mustang with a 351 Cleveland, and I thought it I would post it hoping it might help others who experience a similar issue. I had my Cleveland rebuilt and my engine builder and he installed the EFI set up and ran the engine and then disassembled the EFI components and wiring before I received it. I installed it back in my car and wired the Sniper and Hyperspark components. I wanted to keep the wires neat, so I re-pinned some of the plugs and trim and lengthened some of the wires on everything but the Sniper itself. Before I go any further, let me describe the wire harness for the Hyperspark Distributor... The Distributor harness starts with a three-pin plug for the... 1) Red/Pink 12v ignition, 2) (center) Purple +, and 3) Green - crank wires. On the other end of the harness, the pink 12v is a single loose wire and the green and purple are pinned to the two-pin square plug to connect to the Holley Sniper. In the process of making the wire mods, I noticed that the two-pin square plug for the Positive Purple Crank and Negative Green Crank wires coming from the distributor were reversed (green to purple and purple to green) when plugged into the Sniper two-pin crank plug counterpart. I checked the Holley documentation that I received with all the components and nowhere did it mention that it is normal for the purple and green wires to be reversed when plugged in to the sniper EFI. The complete wiring diagram did not have the wire colors for these two wires. The Holley documentation did say to use the harness that comes with the distributor, but that was all it said. So I thought this must be a manufacturing mistake, and I re-pinned the wires to match purple to purple and green to green. WHAT A MISTAKE! For days I tried to diagnose my "STALLED" problem undoing all my wiring and tearing my hair out in the process. Even with Holley tech's help, we could not figure out why my Sniper was indicating the engine was stalled and was not getting a crank signal. Long story short... I was at a loss and ready to ship the Sniper to Holley for testing under the warranty, when I was going back thru some pictures I had saved and saw a sales picture for the Hyperspark Distributor, and in the picture I noticed that the wire harness shows the purple and green wires were also reversed in the plug. I went back and re-pinned those wires back to purple to green and green to purple and the dam engine started right up! So, DO NOT make the same mistake I made! Holley should provide a better explanation and tell the installer that these wires are intentionally reversed and do not change them.

Finally installed the rebuilt Cleveland. I had some clearance worries, but once I installed the Tremec TKO 600, which I had MDL machine the top covers on the TKO to provide more clearance on top to better match the stock alignment, my valve cover was no longer in contact with the brake booster....What a relief. Also my Sanderson Block Hugger shorty exhaust headers cleared everything, including the obnoxiously large GM style steering box I got from CPP. The next test was to install the shaker stack on top of my taller than stock Edelbrock Air Gap intake and hope it it fits under the hood. I used a (repro) 428 shaker base which is about 3/4" lower in height than a Cleveland base. First I had to re-clock the base to align the concaved area with the distributor. This turned the base from a 6:00 position on the 428 to about 7-8:00 o'clock on my Cleveland. With the Shaker stack in place, the height of the shaker scoop was perfect with the hood closed. Apparently the Cleveland sit farther back in the engine bay than the 428, so I needed to shift the plenum and scoop assembly forward on the base to fit thru the hood hole. Once I had it positioned and clocked correctly, I drilled new holes in the plenum for the mounting studs on the base. The most difficult part was fabricating two crescent shaped sheet metal filler pieces to close up the gaps between the base and plenum created as a result of shifting the base forward. these filler pieces were attached to the front and back between the base and the plenum. This created an offset ring on top of the base in a way like the factory Cleveland base has. Finally, I made a bracket to bolt to the back of the base to an existing mounting hole on the back of the Edelbrock intake to ensure the whole thing can not rotate on the carburetor since it is held only by the center stud thru the air cleaner lid. No clearance issues with my Holley Sniper EFI, or the Hyperspark Distributor. or with the throttle cable, which I had to add a small plate to the stock throttle bracket to extend it to align better with he Holley throttle linkage. I fabricated a mounting plate and mounted the Hyperspark Coil to the Edelbrock intake under the air cleaner base. Installed the front end components... Four row copper radiator, Aftermarket six blade fan, Alternator, Sanden Compressor, Saginaw P/S pump with a Ford factory A/C mounted cooler. I fabricated the top plate over the Sanden compressor to mimic the mounting locations used on the factory York Compressor and mount the P/S cooler and Idler pulley bracket to it, just as it was from the factory York. I had to fabricate the P/S pump bracket and spacers to properly mount the Saginaw pump. This took a lot of time tweaking it until it was aligned with the water pump and crank pulleys. Here are some pictures....

I have the Dakota Digital RTX Series and what an awesome kit! can give you multiple readings i.e Speed, Oil Pressure, Radiator Temp. You can also adjust these settings in your iOS or Android Phone. you can also change the color of the dials. my only gripe with this kit, is it doesn't have the running horse when you select the high beams. thats one thing that I wish that on there. other than that Dakota Digital is a winner for me.