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I prefer Duplicor's engine paint primer. And I use Duplicolors' ford semi-gloss black engine paint everywhere too. If you're careful with this sprayer, you can get a very nice finish with the semi-gloss black: And for the truckbed liner, I use Rustoleum. I find it is not anywhere near as rough as what you would see in a truckbed, in fact, the surface is not even very orange peely, but it is in some sense "rough" as compared to paint. Good thing is, if you put it down on a good primer or primer or bare metal... it is not coming off, and it is hard a nails! I've had mine in the wheel wells for about 15Kmi now. I just went and wiped the road dirt off with a damp towel, and this is what it looks like behind the drivers wheel: Now, for caulk? I am struggling to remember.. I wanted something that dried pretty hard and would accept paint. I didn't want it too silicon-ized because even cured that stuff is very rubbery. I found something at the HW store, but damn if I can recall what it was.... It needs to be something a little more flexible that JB weld, but significantly less than silicone (if JB weld is a 1, and 100% silicone is 10, you want to get something in the 3 to 4 range. This is so the paint or bed liner wont chip off the caulked surface easily. And you don't want it too hard because as the body panels move relative to one another (pot holes on teh road or whatever, it needs to give some). and when you put it in and it's cured, I cover with primer paint or truckbed liner immediately, so it has a fresh surface to bond to. Hope that helps. Jay

thats a a great looking Celica... it reminds me of the group b races in the 80's. Crazy the 90's JDM cars are going up in Value

I might add that you don't really need a primer under that truckbed liner.. It'll go right onto bare metal (as long as it is really clean and dry I always wipe with laquer thinner or IPA right before applying) and it sticks hard. Great stuff - even if a little expensive - IMO.

Thanks, that was very helpful.

D'oh, we all have our Homer moments ;)

She got her 1st time on track w me in the funeral procession slow beginner group. These guys do NOT know what they are doing. She ran well, brakes started getting tired after 4 laps and I didnt have lots of fuel. Got some video inside & out so we’ll make a little clip and post it in a few days.

I am late replying to this topic, but just in case it is helpful in the future. You can test the vacuum actuator using a brake bleeder pump. The vacuum actuator should hold at least 13lbs of vacuum without dropping (fast or slow). If it does not hold the vacuum then the rubber diaphragm inside is bad. I have disassemble them in the past and repaired originals by sacrificing a cheaper plastic version. I take the diaphragm from the donor and replace the old one in the original. The hardest part is separating the actuator cap from the base. Make sure you have no leaks with the new diaphragm as it is sealed to the base. Here are some brands of actuators that are very close to the originals in appearance and function that may still be available. Three things to look for when buy an aftermarket actuator the orientation of the tab with the mounting hole (should be at 11:00 with the vacuum hose port at 12:00) and the opposite tab (is at 5:00) to the vacuum hose port. The orientation and length of the hook that connects to the snorkel flapper. Finally the vacuum hose port size... some are larger in diameter. Some of the all metal Ford Air Cleaner Vacuum Motor correct type actuators are: Niehoff FE703 AC Vacuum Air Cleaner Motor Actuator Avatar VM 263 Vacuum Air Cleaner Motor Actuator Borg Warner EC518 D7TZ-9D612B Vacuum Air Cleaner Motor Actuator Borg Warner EC517 BWD Air Cleaner Vacuum Actuator Motor VA13 ---is incorrect because the mount tab is at 1 o'clock instead of 11 o'clock Some of the pictures are from when I restored a 1973 Mustang with Ram Air, but all actuators are basically all the same. A factory original 1973 date coded (D73) Ford Snorkel Actuator I repaired as I described above. 1971 - 1973 Mustang Ram Air plenum actuator example. Using a no longer available repro from NPD as a model, I took a snorkel actuator removed the tabs from the new actuator base and made a new base from sheet metal with the correct tabs needed for the ram air plenum. I then glued the new base to the new actuator with body glue. I then finished it in yellow chromate although the originals were mostly silver.