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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/02/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    JayEstes

    Phils 69 rebuild

    well, here's a thought. If you've got a good frame under there with the global west rails, and it's solid, maybe consider just going with it as is instead of trying to improve. There is always more you can do to try to improve, but is it really needed? A car guy generally needs a car that rolls, so what's the best path back to getting the car moving again? I'm frequently stuck in this conundrum - maybe I'll keep her down another few months while I do all this other stuff... time as taught me that I like the car drivable. Now if you skip the frame improvement, you've got it on a beautiful lift, go thru and remove all the rust spots, clean the bottom, and I rattle-canned truckbed liner under there, and I really love how hard and protective that coating is on the bottom is now. Put the stuff back in and get her rolling. A car in a constant state of improvement doesn't roll much. Do good work everywhere you are working, and maybe fight the urge to improve things everywhere. I sure have to. My car rolls again (5 yrs it was down for restore!) it's not perfect, but damn I love hitting the streets with it more than having all these other things I need to do before I can drive it again....
  2. 1 point
    Grabber70Mach

    Rear suspension

    So trying to figure out what is the best way to go in my situation. Getting back to working on my 70 Mach 1, lots has been planned and many parts already purchased. I'm looking at doing a minitub on it and am swaying towards the MTF tubs. Looked at the DS tubs and Dynacorn tubs but don't really want to deal with interior mods. I already have the SorT coilover kit for the front and rear. Years ago I purchased the Vintage Venom Cobra brake kit and installed it. That's where I'm hoping to get some advice from someone that may know or can give me better advice then my thinking. In the rear the Vintage Venom kit uses a bracket for the caliper and a hubcentric spacer that moves the wheel out approximately 7/16". The MTF mimitubs give around 2" more of width in the wheelwell, if I understand correctly. (Has anyone done these on a 69-70 that would share some pictures? If so there appears to be a section towards the front that the tub doesn't sit flush with the rail. What is the measurement from the rail to the inner edge of the tub in that area?). So the SorT rear kit I purchased you weld the brackets on your rear housing. Figured since I have the rear out I'm thinking about narrowing it to get my 7/16" back on each side. Well you know what happens when car guys start thinking. Now I'm debating if I should just go down to the width of a 65-66 rear. 65-66 57.25" 58.375" If I remove 7/16" per side for a total of ⅞". 69-70 59.25" I assume this rear measurement is housing flange to housing flange. Is that correct? In the attached pictures it shows currently how the car sits. The rear tires are: Rims: 17x10.5 Back Spacing: 6.8" (174mm) Offset: +28mm (1.10") Tires 315/35/17's I'm staying with this size tire at minimum, but will explore going wider if I can. I've also thought about calling Quick Performance and just getting them to do a new housing for me. If I go with the 65-66 width, will my axles work as they are? Can I just have them shortened and resplined if needed? They are 31 spline axles.
  3. 1 point
    I make these lights. You can buy them from my website www.vintageleds.com Thank Gary
  4. 1 point
    mustangstofear

    Bronco

    Final prime on the doors. Doing one more test fit with the body on the frame.
  5. 1 point
    69Stanger408

    69 Mach 1 / 408W

    Made my own console, just got back from upholstery shop. Started with cardboard, then 1/8" handy panel, followed by final product made out of birch plywood. Looking forward to installing it. The angled piece at the front is for the vintage air controls which ties it nicely to the under dash.
  6. 1 point
    TexasEd

    69 Mach 1 / 408W

    I looked it up and apparently you can. Looking into it now. I'll be redoing paint and interior in the next 3-6 months and want to get everything lined up to have it done as quickly as possible.
  7. 1 point
    Brian Conway

    Intake and lifter galley gap

    Using the RTV fore and aft will likely take care of the gaps. As long as you can get the bolts to thread properly you should be OK. FWIW; I did my 428 using a Blue Thunder intake (twice) and was impressed with the Mahle gasket over the Felpro. Brian
  8. 1 point
    RPM

    Intake and lifter galley gap

    Lay a big bead of RTV on there for years of trouble free motoring.


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