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Yes, all new. It's just up the road a few miles, outside the city limits. Pretty close to swapping the building's square feet for house square feet. Existing house 2800 sf., 1500 sf. building. Going to build a 1500+ sf. house and a 2400 sf. metal building. (40 x 60). No subdivision, no city taxes, lots and lots of grass, much better.

Definitely worth it. Only thing I wish it had was the running horse when the high beam goes on

Hi Paul, life got got a little busy with other things for a while. Some pandemic roster changes and the kids being a little older and self sufficient got me motivated to get going again!

It's easy to tell a Redneck, their garage is always bigger than their house LOL.

I've been busy trying to fill in the Covid salary deficit over the past month with several extra jobs. Recently fixing some vintage FJ fenders that were quite crunchy. Lots of work, but helps pay the bills. When I'm not working, I'm working on our next large project... ... downsizing the house and upsizing the shop. No more raking leaves in the fall, YEAAAAA!!!

The breaker shown is 15A, and there is another that is not shown that is 18A, just in the H circuit, for the headlights. D1 only connects to D2, and only when the knob is turned CCW. You will feel the detent- its for the courtesy lights. To test the 15A breaker you should get continuity from B to A all the time. To test the 18A breaker you should get continuity from B to H with the knob pulled all the way out. I'm not sure what you mean by : "Also between B and the coil when I pin is pressed against it". You should have resistance between R and I and it should vary as you turn the knob from hi to lo- try different resistance scales. This is the variable resistor for dimming the 8 dash, 1 ash tray, 1 radio, and 2 clock lights.

Replaced my old gauges with Dakota Digital RTX Vintage Series. Definitely and awesome product, super easy to calibrate on your phone.