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Showing content with the highest reputation on 05/05/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    About 1mm at max. I find that I get enough penetration and its certainly strong enough a join. To finish I ground it down, used a 2” roloc flap disc to get it low and then hand file finished to the below picture. I think a very thin wipe with filler will be all it takes to have it done.
  2. 1 point

    22gal Aeromotive gas tank fit?

    Just to wrap up this thread -- I bent the flange at the top of my '70 filler neck, just a little bit, with the help of my vise and got things to line up quite nicely. Any funky-ness in the flange (it's admittedly not 100% flat now) didn't cause any other issues. It still bolted tightly against the gasket, and the gas cap covers it up anyway. So, for anyone putting this tank in your '69 mustang, make sure to get a '70 filler neck.
  3. 1 point
    Well the index has over one full page of references to painting various things. If you have questions you can always ask him- he still pops in occasionally.
  4. 1 point
    BuckeyeDemons build is very detailed and I use it as my Bible on restoration. It is called "69 Mach 408w build" and is here under the Project Progress Forum. I thought it so valuable I made an index for him and we got it added to the front of his thread. You may get some ideas if you look up "paint colors, misc. parts, pg21".
  5. 1 point
    This is a really good question - I hope people have some good answers for you. I am facing the same problem with trying to maintain a cast look on the master cylinder, but nothing I coat it with can take the brake fluid it inevitably winds up seeing. I thought I had a really good solution by using clear 2 part epoxy (the shiny coat over epoxy floors) - but even this material in continual contact with brake fluid breaks down and comes off. I cleaned/stripped/derusted both the booster and the MC, and they looked pretty good going back in - and the booster has held up since little to no brake fluid gets on it - but the MC looks like hell already. Here is what they looked like BEFORE going back in: I am ready to take the MC out and go get it powder-coated since I can't think of any other way to treat the MC that can hold up. I'll be looking forward to the replies you get. I'm only sending because I think in areas where there isn't a huge amount of heat NOR brake fluid the 2 part epoxy can work.
  6. 1 point
    Ford did what is known as the Parkerizing process on many of the sheet metal parts instead of painting. I assume it would work on any ferrous material, but how to do that on large objects is the issue. You can Google it to see how its done.
  7. 1 point
    That appears to be exceptional work. Did you use panel clamps to maintain alignment? I did a couple of wheel arches on my truck last week and thought I'd never finish them....lol!
  8. 1 point

    Rob’s 1969 Mach 1

  9. 1 point
    Been away from here for a while, but finished up the interior this weekend
  10. 1 point
    Taking advantage of being at home. Decided to tidy up the rear end. I still have to replace the brake lines when I have some tube. This has been bugging me since I got it. With the new rubbers all the squeaks in the rear are finally gone.

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