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If the last 4 digits match your vin, it is most likely the original factory stamp because the factory used a stamp holder which held all the stamps in it so they would all be in a nice straight line which is what yours is. An engine rebuild shop wouldn't use one.

I haven't posted much of the progress lately due to the non-eventful nature of trimming and fitting the tips to the valance. This is the last fabrication portion of the long drawn out process, its almost done. Once the holes were trimmed to fit around the tips I removed the valance and started turning the flange. I didn't want to flatten out the shape of the valance with a large flange, and I really didn't want to machine a hammer form, so a little notch in a piece of round rod does the trick. Round and round... until the lip is almost 90 degrees. A little hammer and dolly work to planish out the small imperfections and it's ready to check on the car again. Back in place with the tips clamped back to the pipes, the fab work is finally done! I have to prep the tips for powder coating and there are a few brackets that also need some rust protection. Some bolts and nuts also need to be upgraded, since I was using what I had on hand. Next up... marker light delete or return fuel line...

Sad to see the term "MACH" on anything but a mustang.

Okay, I watched the first 35 seconds of that video, it was too painful. Ford needs to bring in some more experienced designers. First, the thing is hideous. Second, it looks like a copy of a vehicle from another manufacturer.

I got a bit worried about those deep scoops and sticking to the hood when i pull it from the mold ,so i waxed them one more time ,dont stick ,dont stick ,dont stick ,that should do it !

And yes ,that is resin and fiberglass build up on the floor haha ,about 1 inch thick

just need to finish up the drivers window stops and she's all done ( i hope)

Thanks fellas!!! Per comments here, I'm going to fix the left rear qtr rust and bank out the rest of it. I have a patch panel for the rusted out area that I bought from CJ Pony a year or so ago. I've read that is it a poor fit and will need some modifications. I'm going to mess with it and see if I can make it work. However, if it becomes a mess, I've noted NPD has a couple of options, one being a patch panel made in Canada. Anyone use it? As for the tail panel, I have a high end piece I purchased through NPD. I will probably just replace the whole tail panel. Thanks!!!

Some people like myself do care about date codes, because cars are only original once, and I for one do not want to own a Taiwanese made Mustang. Also, if you have a high value car like a cobra jet or boss 302 or boss 429 or shelby etc, i guarantee you with 100% certainty that nearly every single potential buyer is going to care a lot about whether it has the original sheet metal with the date codes on it or not. I know this for a fact because I have been repairing, restoring, and selling these for a living for 45 years, and if you have 2 mustangs that are identical except that one has all original sheet metal and the other has mostly crappy taiwan sheet metal, the taiwan car will be worth much, much less than the original sheet metal one, unless of course you find someone that just happens to prefer crappy taiwan sheet metal with no date codes that is mig welded to a car, instead of original ford sheet metal with date codes that has the factory spot welds etc. Also, if you want to replicate the original spot welds, you will have a hard time doing it yourself unless you have a spot welder with the right tips like the one I use, and this is only going to cost you even more additional work and time, as opposed to just replacing the lower section if that is all that is needed. The 68 mustang dynacorn had at the sema show several years ago was nice, but it cost them a ton of money to have someone make all their aftermarket pieces line up together.

you could not pay me enough money to change your original quarter with a pos repo one. 1. you loose the factory date code when you replace the quarter. 2. you loose the factory spot welds when you replace the quarter. 3. a new quarter will not properly line up with the door, or trunk lid etc unless you work on the quarter to make it fit. 4. it will be a bazillion times harder to make a repo quarter fit than it would to put the lower section in like latoracing shows.

.A. "Vinnie" Musetto made the best headline: Headless Body in Topless Bar, 1983. Oh...headliners, not headlines. My bad...

Apparently $125 according to a wrecking yard in North West GA. Is that right? Are cigar lighters for 70's so valuable? What annoys me is they wouldn't give me a price on the phone, despite me saying if it's 5 bucks I'm there but if it's $50 I'm out. I drove from Athens out of my way.....