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Yes, PS center link and idler arm are different than MS parts. MS centerlink also has the stud to connect the pitman arm to and do not have threads on DS end to connect the control valve. If you are purchasing the PS to manual adapter, you can use PS center link and idler. Remove the ram and discard it, remove the control valve and install the adapter in place of it. If you have some fab skills, you can install a Prius EPAS for about $100 instead of Borgeson box. You will still need the PS to manual adapter but can use your current steering box if it is in good condition. You get 3.5-4 turn from lock to lock steering with PS box and get rid of pump, hoses etc.

aslanefe Thanks, I spoke to CJPony parts who told me I could use the stock ford pump but from what I've read on here you need a strong pump, like the GM style pump. I purchased the adapter. Also, is there a difference between the power steering vs manual center link (other than 1 additional hole for the power steering slave cylinder)?

Incase you didn't know, you need more than just the Borgeson steering box. You will also need manual steering drag link, idler arm and pitman arm; or a "manual steering adaptor" if you are using PS drag link, pitman and idler. I think Borgeson also recommends GM style pump instead of Ford pump.

Had a wandering problem once which turned out to be the nut was loose on the end of the "power steering control valve". On the end of the valve there is a cap which is held in place with 2 screws. Remove the cap and it exposes the nut. It should be torqued to a specific value then replace the cap. You may want to check this.

750hp/595ft-lbs Power was inline with race gas until the point the 850 was just limiting the motor which from memory was down around 6000 rpm. Ran the engine initially on the shops carb with race gas because they knew it worked and didn't want to potentially fight carb unknowns during initial power up/breakin. Tune is really conservative on the e85. Power was above my goal and it wasn't worth the extra tune time to me...

Pleeeease do not keep trying to start it if it does not have a roller cam, as it can kill the cam if it hasn't already. We can help guide you thru the initial start up process so it hopefully goes easy. What oil and/or additives are you using for break in? You do NOT need to start it to set the timing, and that is the worst way to do an initial start. If you set the timing the way it is described in Mach 1 Driver's post above, it will be close enough to get it started and for it to continue running. Engines sometimes need some choke for initial start up and can die just like yours is without it. .

I doubt this is your problem, but my Grande' behaved in a similar fashion. It took me a long time, but I eventually stumbled on the fact that the stud for the idler arm had been installed upside down. So when you hooked everything up, the angle of the passenger side steering link was much different than the angle on the driver side, causing a lot of bump steer when only one tire hit a bump. How do the angles of your steering links compare when you eyeball them? Same?

You wanna open every tech section up to everyone offering something to sell? It's a disservice to the other members of the board, the other "disciplined" suppliers who keep the "selling" where it belongs, and keeps a technical topic well........technical.