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In a post I had mentioned that I modified my UCAs for more caster and a few members asked me how I did that. I was doing it on my 69 Grande recently and below are some pictures showing the modification. Moved the ball joint mounting holes 20 mm aft. If my memory serves me right, when I had done the math to get +4 caster and ended up with 20 mm. May be someone can do the math using stock spindle geometry and verify that moving upper ball joint 20 mm increases the caster +4. So, moving the ball joint holes 20 mm aft. Used a card board to trace the original holes and big hole for ball joint, then moved them 20 mm on the card board. Then made a template from the card board and made the steel doubler that is welded to the surface the ball joint is attached. The doubler was a piece of scrap sheet I had that was the same thickness as the UCA metal. Drilled the original and new (moved) ball joint mounting holes on the doubler. Used the original holes to attach the doubler to the UCA using bolts and nuts. had to slice the aft side of the UCA so the doubler will slide in. Welded the doubler and drilled the moved holes to UCA using the holes on the doubler. Had to cut the egg shaped top part and move that to rear so ball joint will fit. Need to trim some areas so ball joint grease fitting fits and is accessible.Then welded and braced everything. Had done this mod on my 70 Grande a few years ago on a 3 bolt ball joint UCA. 3 bolt UCA is a little less work to modify. As far as I remember, I have +6 or +7 caster on my 70 Grande with stock strud rods and stock LCA.

the guy who painted my car did the same thing, everyone asked "did you run out of paint?" so this was my fix. Problem solved :-)

Here is a pic of my 69 Coupe on his 50th birthday 11/26/18. Repairing a couple rust spots on the l/s windshield post. Build date was 11/26/68 in Metuchen, NJ. My 2000 Ranger behind the Mustang was built at the same assembly plant 03/2000, almost 31 1/2 years later.

Measure, cut, tack, cut apart, repeat... fitting a 2.5" X pipe to a convertible is fun. I'm half tempted to get my rotisserie out and put this thing on it (not really, but it would be easier). Getting all the angles to work together, and keep the O2 sensor bungs in position. I am going for maximum clearance at the transmission yoke and fitment through the "tunnel" along with keeping the front portion tight to the body. The C6 cross member doesn't have much clearance for exhaust on the drivers side so I kept both sides at the same height. The pipe sticks down about 1.75" beyond the floor supports. Before I chopped up the X pipe, I laid out where I wanted it to land in the car. The trans is 1" to the drivers side and I wanted the X centered on it, basically for the yoke to clear, but I would go nuts knowing it was out of center. Getting it all butchered up and removing all of the slip joints the fitting began. If you notice in the following picture, the X is going up hill. This was really fun to calculate the angles for. I cut the back sections of tube off a little staggered, as they are fixing to switch sides next time out. Most of all the joints fit really tight but the Pypes tubing is just a little larger than the mandrel bends I was using to fit the parts. I'll get them hammered in place to smooth out the connections. I'll be removing this section to get it on the table and fry all the pieces together as it is a little more manageable in this state. Looking up from the floor, it looks quite simple...