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Let me see if I can explain with words. Square tubing or a hat section with cross section of the rails and thickness of the rails, tie the front rail to rear. Weld the connector to floor also. You know the front floor cross member (link below), add 3-4 more of braces like those about a foot apart in the transmission tunnel. Weld them to floor and weld the ends to your SFCs. Then weld tubing or hat section from the SFC to rockers following the braces you added to transmission tunnel. You can use something like 1x4 tubing for this so they are not sticking too much under the rockers. This is how I would do if I didn't want to cut the center console. If you put inner rockers, just tie the 1x4 tubing to them. Front floor cross member

The clutch pedal slides into the existing bulkhead. Get new bushings. Get a brake pedal pad for a manual trans car. Cut down the brake pedal you have.

I bought seatbelts from a ford e150 with the extended part so i can mount the belt and grab them. Judging by what other people have done this should clear the frame. (At least I hope, it is really welded in there now) Does anyone see a potential interference issue with the top frame?

If one were to go off the deeper end of chassis reinforcement, I utilized a thread from sn65 (which has been taken down) on areas to focus on. The main point of that information was to have the chassis working as a system, small gains in rigidity and torsional stiffness can be gained, but how does it translate into real word use. The majority of folks who are installing either SFC or inner rockers are pretty much stopping at that point as their cars are not going to a racetrack at any point nor do they want a subjective jungle gym in their car. That being said, my current build (which is ridiculously slow) has incorporated some of the ideals of several builds and innovations from TA racing, B302 and Shelby upgrades. Mind you, I am not building a race car, but an overkill street car that still has a heater, some creature comforts and can be driven to the track (if that ever happens lol). The main area of focus, after having installed inner rockers and a once piece seat riser (lower seat pan reinforcements to come) was a multi point cage that ties into the roof above the doors, windshield and A pillars. The down bars are attached to areas that will be transferring suspension component loads to this area. The rear down bars are located directly over the rear coil over mounts and the front has several bars that transfer loads to the torque boxes and to bars welded inside the upper A pillars There are a bunch of areas I would have loved to apply more triangulation like the tube running across the firewall to the cage would have been great, but it has a stock heater in the way. I'm sure there could have been more areas that might add a little more here and there, but as far as going beyond the "norm", this might take the cake lol.

One interesting thing with 69-70 convertibles, they do not use a one piece seat riser from the factory. I don't quite understand Ford's reasoning on this. When I was upgrading my '70 FB I looked everywhere for a specific one for that year, they didn't make them, so I hacked up an earlier model to fit.

38.6 lbs ,i couldnt do the weight in kilos ,my neighbors probably could though ...they get raided quite often . I would go 39 lbs to be safe

Re-coring your original is a good move. I have been recording my originals for decades with never a regret. The re-install always goes smoothly and I have never noted any negative difference in cooling performance. The radiators for my 65 and 66 200 and 289 cars get the three row up grade. The 69/428 is stock with the three row and this last time I up graded the core replacement from the stock 123 tubes 8 fins per inch to the modern 159 tubes 13 fins per inch. The tube and fin count is what I was told. The shop I have been using for the last 45 years orders the core replacement and does the installation re-using my top , bottom tanks and the original side straps. The shops that will or can provide this service are becoming scarce. You are fortunate that you found one. I prefer to refurbish and reuse my original parts rather than piling them up in the garage where they are only one step away from the trash. Brian

This may not be an answer you like, but I strongly recommend going with a 4r70w if you want an automatic with overdrive. The fmx flexplate and crossmember work for the 4r70w swap as well, and the factory hard lines can be cut and modified to work with the 4R. I think I remember that the slots in the crossmember just need to be widened a bit. There is the possibility of driveline angle issues with the gear vendors tailshaft, but this isn't always the case. The GV units have good reputations, but their overdrive is .80 I believe and the 4r70w is numerically lower (this is a good thing for highway cruising/mpg). That means you can get numerically higher rear gears and have the benefits of more acceleration, without increasing highway cruise rpm. Not to mention a 4r70w by itself is a ton lighter than an fmx with a GV unit, and since it has lower rotating mass that also means more HP eaten turning the driveline = less efficiency as well. I was damn near doing this swap myself, when I came across a great deal on a toploader...so I'm prepping for that now. Even if they are a good product, which is what I have read, to me they really don't make sense.

There should be a single wire with a right-angle connector that slides over the threaded post on the back. It's unswitched 12V thru a 15A fuse (I think it's 15A). Blue with red tracer maybe.

Wow. For 1969, the lead for the cigarette lighter (always blue/white trace) is tied into the courtesy lights (lower right tab). For 1970, it was the same. This is a 20 amp fuse. The lighter should not blow in that position.

According to the 69 Mustang owners manual fuse #-6 a 14 amp fuse powers the lighter, clock, trunk light, dome light, map light, courtesy lights, glove box light, & instrument panel lights.