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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    LiLMike

    Radiator Overflow Tank

    This is the one I bought. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ems-ms107-88p/overview/ Here it is located on the right with the blue tape on it...
  2. 1 point
  3. 1 point
    Floridastang

    Midlife vs Michael?

    Nope not even a drop of rain
  4. 1 point
    aslanefe

    1970 Fastback

    Go to hobby lobby or an other craft store and get the "silly Winks" or other brand craft closed cell foam pads; they are 12" by 18", you can get 2mm and 5mm thick for about $1 a sheet. You can get black, gray etc. You can use them to make the gaskets for the rear bumper, front bumper side bracket, gas filler neck, side marker etc. Way cheaper than buying pre-made gaskets and you do not need to wait for shipping when ever you need a gasket. I used side wall of an old tire to make the pads for the rear bumper which does not compress as much as the craft foam.
  5. 1 point
    barnett468

    Help with idenfifying my Cam

    ...or it could be the one below one or even a different one, and the only way to possibly find out other than having it measured is to simply call Crane and ask them. Crane once made more cams then they currently do, therefore, it may not be listed in their current catalog. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-523941/overview/make/ford CRANE Local: 386-310-4875 Toll Free: 1-866-388-5120
  6. 1 point
    1969_Mach1

    Help with idenfifying my Cam

    With my limited experience, I'd say the Crane cam you are removing is fairly mild for a 351 CID motor and would have a smooth idle or very mild rough idle. If it has a lopey idle, I'd look at something else, too lean, vacuum leak, etc. Your new cam is fairly aggressive and will have a lopey idle. Is that what you are looking for? A 600 CFM carb is kind of small for a Cleveland. This cam will definitely want something larger. Do you need a 10 degree split duration on a Cleveland? I'd research that a bit if it were my motor before final cam selection. Headers + good dual exhaust minimize the need for that split.
  7. 1 point
    Cantedvalve

    Help with idenfifying my Cam

    I think it is this one (although degreeing it is the only way to know for sure)... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/crn-133042/overview/make/ford They changed their numbering schemes. What gives it away is the 272 on there. That is the duration. It will be somewhat lopey. It should do well, but I prefer split duration cams. I’m running this one... https://www.summitracing.com/parts/lun-10320493lk/overview/make/ford Mind you, I have a stock long block with the only real changes being the valve springs and the rocker arms. Has a nice idle to it, and plays well with a 2500 stall converter.
  8. 1 point
    Johns Summer of 69

    1970 Quarter Windows Trim?

    looks like they might have them https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/store/p/15794-Moulding-/-Trim-Vertical-Door-Glass-To-Quarter-Glass-Driver-Side-Grade-A-Used-1970-Mercury-Cougar-/-1970-Ford-Mustang.html?attribs=79 https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/70qglasstrimps.html?attribs=79
  9. 1 point
    Vicfreg

    Radiator Overflow Tank

    I used a small billet tank on my '70. I have a slightly bigger Summit Racing plastic tank on my '68. I agree that it is probably not needed. I have never drained a drop out of the one on my '68. But, wanted to have one on my '70 anyway.
  10. 1 point
    aslanefe

    1970 Quarter Windows Trim?

    As far as I know, the 70 coupe quarter window trim that holds the weather strip is not reproduced and you have to find a used glass with the trim. There is a good video at west coast cougars web site that explains the differences in windows between 69 and 70, glued and not glued glass. The video is about 42 minutes long and explains how to do a lot of stuff related to the door glass and at the end of the video he explains the differences between door glass between 69 and 70 Cougar (including the Mustang glass).
  11. 1 point
    Vicfreg

    1970 Convertible Restoration

    Thanks guys. Getting close to the end, so trying to move slow and do it right... Finished my oil cooler plumbing, and also my fuel system plumbing to the FiTech Fuel Command Center. Installed my radiator upper hose. Used one of those flex kits with the inserts. Really easy to use. Make sure you get the one that has the billet end caps, not the plastic ones. I have modified the FiTech FCC to remove the float and use the former vent as a fuel return line back to the tank. Next steps are to finish my lower radiator hose and temperature sensor installation, finish the trans cooler plumbing, install my deep sump C-6 pan and trans dipstick. Then on the ground and off to Mike's to watch him do some magic with my exhaust system. Won't reveal my idea, but will be very cool.


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