Leaderboard

I'm following this intently. My boy is 15 and has no interest in cars what so ever. Tried everything. Considering a DNA test.

Following Bigmal's lead, allow me to wish a Happy 49th Birthday to my Mustang! I've owned it since it was 5. Geez, I'm old!!! Coincidentally (and quite unexpectedly) I received a letter from my bank today informing me the loan on my 2011 Mercury (bought in 2014) is now paid in full. Life is funny that way sometimes.

For odd battery drains, after checking the obvious items like something turned on. The first go to place is the alternator. If two or more diodes short in the rectifier bridged, the alternator will drain the battery with the key off. The alternator will still operate but the maximum amperage output will be a little low. So if there is a drain using gordonr's method with a multimeter, disconnect the alternator and see if that has any affect. If you don't have a multimeter, on older cars like these you can use a test light. Disconnect the positive battery cable, clip the lead to the positive battery post and touch the positive battery cable end with the other end. If the light glows, even dim, there is too much current flow and will drain the battery.

Working on putting a Unisteer R&P in. Unfortunately the box is missing some parts and has some of the wrong parts. So I get to call them tomorrow and see what can be done. Also replaced the motor mounts because they looked suspect.

Here's my stock advice for finding excessive current draw that I provide every customer of mine: First, always install electrical wiring with the battery disconnected. Physically install the underdash harness with fuses. Connect all underhood and taillight harnesses. When ready to check out the harness, close all doors, turn off all lights, accessories, etc. Make sure both battery connectors are disconnected. Connect the positive battery cable to the starter solenoid. Leave the negative terminal disconnected from the battery. Then use a digital volt meter to measure the current draw across the battery. Place one probe of the DVM on the negative battery cable terminal, and the other probe on the negative battery post. Be sure that the DVM is set to amps, DC. If there are no shorts in the wiring connections, the reading should be on the order of 30 milliamps or less. Anything above 1 amp indicates some accessory is on; readings above 10 amps (may blow the fuse on the DVM) indicates a dead short. If you have a short, disconnect all other wiring from the starter solenoid post where the battery connects and re-measure the current. If current drops, the source is the underdash wiring harness or the harness from the starter solenoid to the firewall. Reconnect the wiring to the starter post and then disconnect the underhood harness from the firewall and test again to isolate the source of the short. If the short is not in the underhood or underdash harness, the problem lies in the alternator or voltage regulator. Disconnect each of these in turn to isolate the source. If the short or high current comes from the underdash region, keep the battery negative side disconnected and remove one fuse at a time. Measure the current as above. If you now see low current, there is either a short or an item on that particular fuse circuit is on. Turn off that item and continue checking. Eventually, you’ll have low current readings with all fuses installed and all wiring connected. At that time, and only at that time, is it safe to connect the negative battery cable to the battery. Eventually, you’ll have low current readings with all fuses installed and all wiring connected. This series of tests checks all of the battery directly powered systems. To check the Accessory systems, now repeat all of the tests above with the ignition key in the ACC position. The current with the key in the ACC position may be up to 1 amp or so. When all of the tests are done and no anomalous current is noted, at that time, and only at that time, is it safe to connect the negative battery cable to the battery.