Leaderboard

I thought I would post this, as I can't really find any good reference material on the "how to". I have a 1970 tilt wheel which had a few minor issues, so I decided to take it apart and refurb it. I have done several non-tilt columns, and they at least always need a top bearing replacement. So, I am going to start documenting by adding some pics of the dis-assembly, and then re-assembly. . 1st pic - unique allen bolts and retainers that are under the lower section that hold it on. 2nd pic - directional switch assembly removed. 3rd pic is the cleaned upper housing. 4th pic is a reminder where the snap ring goes. It sits on top of the upper shaft bearing and hold the upper column section on. 5th pic - standard (long) and tilt (short) inner column tubes side by side. 6th to 8th pic - directional switch and wiring harness. Note the "D2" date code. This must be a service/replacement switch. 9th and 10th pic - the directional switch. These are totally different than the standard column switch. In the 10th pic which shows the underside of the switch, you can see the green thing sticking out with a little knob on the end. This is what the turn signal lever screws into, and it is used as the fulcrum point for the tilt mechanism. In picture no 9, there is a little black wire with a plastic thing on the end and a piece of copper. This is another great idea, which is a switch to monitor if your key is still in the ignition....the famous key "buzzer". 11th pic is the locking actuator pin. This is used in both tilt and non-tilt columns. It is hooked to the actuator rod gear "rack" which is meshed with the ignition switch gear. When the ignition switch is in lock, the pin pops up and will lock the steering wheel. This whole key switch/gear/actuator rod set up is a major pain in the neck to set up. But, you can't really delete it, because the actuator rod goes to the column mounted ignition switch.. 12th pic is the dust/air seal that sits on the inner column tube. There are 2 seals, one on the outside of the column tube, pictured here, and one on the inside, which goes over the inner shaft. These prevent air from running up the steering column tube when you are driving down the road. Last 2 pics are of the directional switch harness connector. I did a continuity check to make sure all the connections were good. You can see some discoloring of the wiring due to age and heat. More to come, as I start assembling this....

take the intake off . i have never staked a heli coil and have never had one back out and if you use loctite it can seep thru to the inside of the threads which is not a good thing at all. use bolts with good threads whenever using a helicoil. put regular oil on the bolt threads before installing it.