Leaderboard

duhhh...oops . i just looked at the dates and figured it was a new poster, lol.

I had a couple of reasons for going with the PWM approach: I am running 2 – 12” cooling fans that draw at least 20 amps each. Using relays to control the on-off for these is just not optimum, as the relay contacts take a beating, and there is EMF generated by the relay coil de-energization that needs to be mitigated. I have a lot of electronics on board I cannot use an insertion type temperature probe that is typically installed in the radiator. My radiator fins are extremely tight, (I have a De-Witt direct fit aluminum radiator) and even the smallest probe will not fit. I have no extra engine temperature ports due to the use of my VHX gauges, and the temperature probe for my EFI I need to have the fan controls interact with the trinary safety switch on my Vintage Air system, which would require more relays. I want to have a fail-safe cooling mode where I can manually turn the fans on to 100% if I need to without adding more relays If I am driving and stop for gas, and the car is still hot, when I restart the car, I don’t want both fans to turn on full blast when I am cranking the car. The PWM has the following advantages: Direct measurement of radiator outlet temperature Soft start of the fans Continuously variable speed based on outlet temperature A/C override with one 12v input from the trinary safety switch Fail safe with a simple switch to ground Internally fused Ability to adjust the temperature setpoint and vary coolant temperature in small increments (a few degrees) Ability to remote mount the controller 30 second fan run/cooldown after shutdown Controller bypass during starting No relays I did buy the 100 amp model, only because it was a “no-buzz” version. I will admit it is overkill, from an amperage standpoint. Now there are models available that are lower amperage. I picked the Auto-Cool guy because of the industrial design, and the temperature probe. At the time, the other suppliers did not offer a direct measurement option, only the radiator insert option. I ran the controller on my engine test stand. As advertised, as soon as my thermostat opened (190) the fans slow started and ramped up. After the engine heated up, I adjusted the fan controller settings and I was able to move the coolant temperature up and down. I also tested the A/C override and fail safe and it worked as advertised.

The only point in doing it the way I did is that once the pink wire is removed it is likely gone forever -- with little or no chance of ever replacing it should anyone ever want to. Most people don't care but it's important to me to preserve as much of the original car as I can, that's the only reason I kept it. Not concours correct but "period correct" lets say. Jay, what I did is splice an 18-ga. wire into my OEM harness right behind the ignition switch, where the pink wire originates. Then I snaked it along the original harness in the engine compartment to the distributor, then inside the distributor to the Pertronix unit. The pink wire* still goes to my OEM yellow-top coil. Of course, the extra wire on my coil for my aftermarket tach is also incorrect but if you're clever only a trained eye will spot the extra wire(s) in the bundle. *The pink wire actually goes to a 3-pin connector where the mating side is green/red.- so it's actually green/red at the coil.

steel gears can only used on a factory roller cam . you can also use composite or melonized gears. if it is a billet steel roller you must use bronze, composite or melonized gear . the melonized gear is compatible with all cam materials contrary to what some "expert" magazine writers say . crane makes the best melonized gear i know of but they don't fit all distributor shaft sizes because shaft size varies from mfg to mfg . isnt that nice.

You place the pvc pipe on the vertical adjusting bars that the U shaped brackets slide up and down. By slicing down one side of the pipe you can push it over the vertical bars and it fits snug . It’s a bit of trial and error to get the pipe to the height you want.

Another reason these brackets can come off is due to the fact that when you wind the window down it bottoms out on the rubber stop . If you overwind going down it puts pressure on the brackets. I cut some 15mm pvc pipe and cut it down the length . I put this on both front and rear bars so when you wind the window down the brackets hit the top of the pipe instead of centre of the window hitting the rubber stop. This also helps with the felts at the end of the door not getting hooked up all the time.