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Carbon Fiber fender supports. Engine cover to go in between.

A billet torque converter for a street car?

Another thing I learned throughout decades of Drag Racing... If you have ANY kind of High Stall Torque Convertor, an auxiliary trans cooler is usually a MUST!!! The reason is that High Stall torque convertors have specially designed Stators and Impellers that allow the trans fluid to literally "Slip" past the blades until a certain desired RPM... That slippage creates Fluid Shear, which rapidly increases trans fluid temperatures to levels that will definitely reduce the life of your transmission over time.... We have run torque converters that would only stall at 4000 RPM behind an engine with over 1000 Lb/Ft of crankshaft torque @ 4000 RPM... We also ran torque convertors with 6500 RPM stall behind an engine with only 550 Lb/Ft of crankshaft torque @ 5000 RPM... Many people "Over-Cam" their engines beyond what is really needed for their particular intended usage. The bigger cams with longer overlaps require higher stall convertors to negate the loss of bottom end torque... This results in Increased trans fluid temperatures... Everything is a trade-off in balancing what is "Needed" vs. what is merely "Wanted"...

Thanks for the feedback. I will be using a stand alone transmission cooler to cool my C-6. I got my radiator intentionally without the integral transmission cooler, as I am running a ~400 cubic inch stroker, and it is going to run hot. I also will be running a Vintage Air system. So, for my transmission, I will be using a cooler that has an electric fan built into it, and I am trying to locate it away from the radiator and A/C condenser. I think this unit will fit down in the Valence area: http://derale.com/products/fluid-coolers/transmission/remote-mount2013-10-28-09-53-271226240719/19-row-hyper-cool-dual-cool-remote-cooler-6an-detail

If you look at later model 302 and 351W oil pans, 80's, 90's, that have flat side rails. Older oil pans like these classic cars use have ribs between each bolt hole on the side rails. Sometimes somebody will try to install a late model one piece gasket for flat side rails on an older oil pan with ribbed side rails. It will fit, but might leak. If you installed it 2 years ago and now a leak has started. Look close and try to determine if its the oil pan gasket or rear main seal. It's not too easy on Fords because of the plate between the engine and trans. Silicone sealer is kind of a strange thing. It's for sealing oil leaks, yet, oil slowly deteriorates it.

Here is mine... installation was easy

On a non fold down fastback there is a fiberboard package tray that goes behind the back seat. This leaves you with a deeper trunk for storage

Mine doesn't fold down either (wish it did), and no there isn't a panel. Some tests show that adding a panel will stiffen the car up by a good percentage- I've forgotten the number, but something on the order of 15-20% I think

My Bad I have been known to get things backwards. A friend of mine was restoring a 69 the same time I was and we were installing driver side mirrors at the same time. He has an earlier 69, 68 build and mine is a june 69 build. He researched this and told me that the round one was earlier and rectangle was late 69 and 70's and I took him for his word without researching. After doing a little research on this myself today I question the Feb change over too because if my door panels were original to the car and I think they were they had the rectangle hole long after Feb.

I used a straight one on 70 with round hole on door panel without an issue. I don't think the 90 degree one will work with panel with rectangle hole as I think it will put a real tight bend on the cable due to how the joystick is mounted on the bezel.

I agree, I don't believe the February date can be correct. There may be some late August '69 cars, just before the model year changeover, that got the round bezel but I don't believe it was many.