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I got the pedal, booster and master cylinder from Mustang Steve. He sells a kit on his website. Mach1 Driver, I remember the Booster would mooo with every push of the pedal when I did the first bleeding of the brakes, it had no vacuum hooked up. Its a 351C stroked to a 408 the IC is 106, roller cam from Comp Cams I have a 1969 Mustang and used the rod that drops down on the brake pedal. I believe the 1970 uses a straight rod. I'm using a 1970 Master cyl, Dist block and 1970 front disk calibers.

I would paint the engine compartment, wire the engine compartment, build motor and install. They mask my engine compartment and front on both my 69 and 70 before painting. Once it's painted, it takes twice as long to get anything done, due to being oh so very careful around the paint

Max, nice pic. Your Mustang looks great. You should take another pic from that angle with the hood closed.

The parts car I bought, actually had push in neo inserts, a lot like on a licensed plate, with fine thread bolts with 7/16 head. I used the 2 small chrome bolts that came with the bumper bolt kit from CJs

It is exposed. I cut a piece of old bike tube to go in between bracket and valence as to not scratch paint.

On the outside like the top picture. I cut a small piece of thin rubber to put in between the brace and the valence and used a stainless socket head bolt to attach it. I think they were black from the factory? All of the ones I have taken off have been rust colored though. You can't really see them when everything is bolted together unless you really look for them.

prayers1: If you truly have 12" of vacuum at idle, you should have some power assist. My 351W makes 14" of vacuum and the power brakes work great. Many years ago an older mechanic told me if you lightly press down on the brake pedal, maybe an inch or so, then start the engine, a properly operating vacuum brake booster will try to pull the pedal down slightly under your foot. I.E. you will feel the pedal pressure against your foot decrease. I've tried that simple test on several cars with good operating vacuum power assist brakes and it works. Do you ever have any power assist? Like on the first brake application after letting off the gas pedal? When I was younger I had a Dodge Challenger that made only 9" of vacuum at idle. I would still get good power assist after letting off the throttle. And then usually 3 more good power assist brake applications with the car idling like at a stop light. rwcstang: If you hear a hiss while holding the brake pedal down, your power brake booster is leaking. It's best to have it rebuilt instead of buying an aftermarket replacement or rebuilt booster.

Nicely done. I'm an electrical engineer myself and the archaic diagrams from the factory have always been a source of frustration. Thank you, I pinned the thread, I don't think Ben will mind.

Wow, this is great stuff. And perfect timing for me as I am doing some rewiring with the right hand drive conversion as well as separating the blinkers from the brake. Thanks.

Yes it will fit. I am on my second RetroSound radio. I had a model 1 and had a speaker short and burnt the amp section out of it. Purchased a Malibu to replace it, the fit was 10x better. I also added a RetroSound Quad 4 Amplifier. Made a custom bracket and put it behind the pass side dash panel. Fit is good, also have A/C and had room. Ed

If you get a Custom Autosound, you will regret it. They used to use Kenwood internals, but since they moved to all Chinese stuff, they've been crap. So if you hear someone explain how they've had one for years, that's why.

Retrosound without a single hesitation. I got the model 2 "Malibu" for my 69. Couldn't be happier: top notch technology with classic looks. G

Custom Autosound has really bad reviews on many different forums. I installed a Retrosound Hermosa over the winter and hid speakers inside the kick panel vents. I've had good luck so far and I'm impressed with the quality. Matt