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On my 69 Coupe I performed the Shelby/Arning UCA drop, then I installed the front suspension, then the steering box & linkage, next came the brakes, brake lines & hydraulic clutch system. Then once I have the engine built I will install the engine & the trans then install the f/e sheet metal.

Summer? Summer? It's 105° here now, but it'll cool down to 100° for the weekend. Can you send some of your coolness across the Pacific please?

I am in the garage tonight and it's bloody cold. Bring on summer.

That's it, snake hunting in the Mustang! You might scare them off though when they feel that rumble coming down the road. haha You can keep the browns though. I spend too much time each summer keeping them, well trying to, out of my yard and house. The joys of living rural.

Make sure you refit the kick panel air vents before you fit the dash and parking brake, otherwise it becomes very difficult- ask me how I know.....

I've done a fare bit of sheet metal cutting in the last few months and found an air powered nibler invaluable. Two things. Buy a good one and you need a decent compressor that won't run out of puff every 10 seconds. This was a good excuse to buy a new compressor as well. Sometimes I need to justify my spending and an excel spreadsheet won't always work.

Not much of a photo person. These are what I can find that are decent quality; 2 of the "70, one of "69 Grande.

Drop a 5.0L in it. Give them Cheby boys something to grimace about :)

FYI the ford Dampener has the marking for either pump. But I would recommend painting the correct markings prior to putting the engine in the car. As delivered it is just an engraving in the metal and don't show great under a timing light. I use a grease pencil to mark where I want the timing to end up to help. But if I had to do it over again I would have painted all the markings with the engine out of the car.

Ford has one a dampener that can be neutrally balanced. https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-6316-D302 They also recommended the this flex plate. Not sure what you should use if you are going manual and need a flywheel. https://www.summitracing.com/oh/parts/pma-pax30213/overview/

I spent a lot of time researching "how to" information on removal of the stainless trim and glass on my 69 stang. They don't make that trim like they used to and used OEM stuff is expensive, thus I wanted to salvage it all. While everything went well, for the most part, I wished now I had known what I know now before I started. Could have saved me a ton of time and a few dollars. Trim removal with the right tools is really quite beneficial. Here's what I used or at least started with: The paint stick has a wedge I cut into it to help slide under the stainless to raise it a bit for access to the retaining clips and to prevent damage to the trim. The flash light helped, on occasion, to better see the retaining clips though it really isn't needed as one can utilize the bottom two tools to feel out the location of the individual clips. The important tools are the bottom tools which I researched off the web. The very bottom tool was highly rated and there is even a YouTube video of a gentleman removing the front window trim on his 60's model Mustang. I started with this tool and chipped my windshield trying to use it. Frankly, by far, the better tool is the Lisle tool above it. It made quick and easy work of the removal of those retaining clips. Highly advise one go with the Lisle tool. The rear trim removal was not near as easy as the front, this because of the underlying gasket and sealant, with the latter being the biggest issue. Not only do the clips retain the trim but the sealant acts like a glue and thus has retention qualities as well. With that hardened gasket, I really struggled to get my tool under the trim and locate the individual clips. Knowing where they are helps: I started from the bottom and worked my way around to the top. To better access the clips with my tool, I sprayed WD-40 under the trim which facilitated the ease of getting the tool in between the gasket and the trim. It worked for that purpose but better than that and unbeknownst to me at the time, the WD-40 acted as a solvent to soften the sealant reducing it's adhesive qualities. I spent a good hour getting nowhere until I used that WD-40. Below is a picture of the softened sealant and my tool of choice for lifting the trim. You can see some of the residual sealant adhering to the trim. Removal of the glass was not bad. I removed the rear first. With the stainless trim off, one can see the gasket, which is really what wraps and holds the glass. That and the sealant. I simply took a Razor knife to the upper lip of the gasket and cut it out. From there, one merely needs to push the back glass out from the inside. That took fifteen minutes with the help of my son gently pushing from the inside. The windshield was not the big nightmare I was expecting. Because the WD-40 worked out so well on the rear glass, I sprayed the perimeter of the glass with it the night before. The same stuff that seals the rear window seals the front. The next day, I fabricated the following tool from some Acetal rod and some .080 timmer line. Before I secured the line to the inside pull handle, I pushed the end under the glass through the softened adhesive and to the inside of the car. With me working on the outside and my son working on the inside, we pulled together along the perimeter of the glass, more or less, cutting the adhesive. We went around the perimeter twice. After that, my son positioned himself on one side of the car and me on the other, pushing in unison from the inside at the top of the glass, slowly pushing it outward. The glass came out without issue or incident. The removal of that windshield didn't take but thirty minutes. I've taken so much from this forum and out of gratitude, I hope some might find this useful. Thanks!!!

How much would they be going for?