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BSWOR you should consider pinning this post. A REAL Schematic Until now there were no entire car schematics for our cars, only wire diagrams. This schematic is 5 pages in four separate pdf files (a quirk of my CAD software). A real schematic rarely makes any attempt to identify wires or plugs or connectors. A real schematic tries to show the internal workings of a component when it helps to explain a circuit. A real schematic simplifies. A real schematic is used when you want to understand how a circuit works. A real schematic is what the designer makes first, then he converts it to a wire diagram. A wire diagram shows where wires go and how to connect them. You need BOTH to work on a car, unless the wire diagram is just so darn simple you don’t need the schematic. Our electrical systems consist mostly of switches and lights; around 44 and 41 respectively. Switches are either open or closed. This schematic only shows when a switch is closed. Usually that is indicated by a few simple words below the switch like on, off, run, start, etc. Pay attention to the top section of page one. It shows the most often used symbols on the schematic. I started this project so I could calculate the electrical loads and know what size alternator to get for my future needs (EFI, fuel pump, halogen lights, power windows, etc.) Amperage information for a stock 1969 Mach1 is in an accompanying spreadsheet (Mustang amps.xls) along with a chart of our most common electrical load: light bulbs. If you don’t like the loads I used to calculate “Likely constant amp draw”, by all means alter the spreadsheet to suit your needs, or use simple math- just don’t complain to me. My hope is that this schematic and spreadsheet become valuable reference tools for other hobbyists. Edit: I've seen quite a few questions about the 1970 turn signal circuit so I started another topic for "1970 Mustang Exterior lights". Edit, it is now six years later and long past time to post the most current revisions. The site has been down for "Bandwidth Limit Exceeded" many times, so I have added a method to view the schematics and other technical documents: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/10FqYlsGT1XXr8B5TCF9WAASkU4vdPtuJ?usp=sharing Mustang amps.xls MUSTANG SCHEMATIC PG4 REV5.pdf MUSTANG SCHEMATIC PG3 REV6.pdf MUSTANG SCHEMATIC PG2 REV5.pdf MUSTANG SCHEMATIC PG1 REV5.pdf MUSTANG SCHEMATIC PG5 REV5.pdf TABLE OF CONTENTS 69 MUSTANG SCHEMATIC.pdf

Awww, hmmm, no I don't think so. When I own one I'll make the extra effort.

I'm not familiar with the mirror issue but the best way to determine your build date is from a Marti report. VIN's were assigned as the cars were ordered but they were not built in the same order. The Marti report will tell you the exact day it rolled off the assembly line.

I went with the Total Cost Involved (TCI) system you mentioned from Hart Rods. I actually replaced my battery panel for a new one when I replaced the radiator support...unsure why as the battery is going in the trunk :( I did the Heidts 4 link in the rear.

I used an ARP engine bolt kit to assembly my motor. And yes, you usually do not get all the correct length timing cover bolts. After I figured out what bolts I needed that were missing in the kit, ARP gave them to me. Don't get the polished stainless steel bolts. The finish on them is so smooth they keep coming loose. I haven't had that issue with the black oxide finish bolts. And the black oxide seems to last without any discoloring or fading.

I've been driving the car around for a few days and it's better, guess I'm getting around 10-12 now. At least I'm not seeing the needle move when I put my foot down.

Thanks for the kind words everyone, each day is getting a little easier. It is very quite without her here. RIP Rosie.

Brian, what would you recommend for fronts with the big block (street or sport)? Dave

Bilstein are nice shocks. I recall when I was a GM technician at least half of their new cars and trucks came with Bilstein shocks. The situation I am in is the car already has 560 lb./in. front coils and 5 leaf 200 lb./in. rear leafs. So I don't want a real high pressure gas shock. I'd go with adjustable Gabriel Striders again if they still made them, but they don't. I have found Koni "Street" shocks, as they pronounce it, for $65.00 each at Summit Racing. They are non adjustable, but, I might go with them. Before I rule out Bilstein shocks, where did you find them?

That's cool Pak, sure I'll waste alot of time looking through these.