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About a week ago I was removing the left front wheel, that is until one of the last nuts seized. Oy! Now I always start the nuts by hand and carefully tighten them and finish with a torque wrench. I suppose there best laid plans often go away. Two impact wrenches failed to budge it so I resorted to leverage with a cheater bar on a breaker bar. Finally snapped the ARP wheel stud. New stuff should be here today. The point of this post is as easy as these cars are to work on with plenty of room compared to newer cars, this is back breaking work for me bending over and under the fenders. Had to modify a couple of tools to fit on the inner nuts on the upper control arm. The wrench in the first pic helps me tighten the uca bolts alone. Neither a ratchet or end wrench would work. It looks like there's room to fit a ratchet but nope.

Update. I ended up going with PS Engineering wheels. 17x8 4.5" backspace with 245/45 On front and 17x9 5.25 backspace with 255/45 On rear. Was a bit worried about clearance on rear with 275/40, but will get them once these wear out. What do you all think? 17s do not look like to much rim on these classic muscle cars?

Ain't that the truth! And cried more over the dog.

Huh, worked somehow for me. I guess you gotta be smarter than the tool! BAM! Sorry Richard...er Randy :)

So sorry to hear of your loss, Mike.... I too have lost my Fur Babies including 4 Greyhounds over the past decade. I think I care more about my dog than I care about most humans... : (

There are 4 brake pedals; manual trans manual brakes (my first pic), manual trans power brakes (second pic), auto trans manual brakes, and auto trans power brakes. The manual brake pedals mount on the clutch pedal shaft. The power brake pedals mount with a bolt thru the pivot end of the pedal and high up on the bracket, they're longer. Sounds like you need the same one I have (top pic).

Well ...i like to help out when i can :)

Sure, guess it's ok for a groceries getter, but for a car that is my hobby and I enjoy to drive, I would not use a generic shock like the KYB. It was in that context I made the comment, as an enthusiast car.

Call Shaun at streetortrack.com He'll set you straight on that question and can sell you the properly valved Bilsteins as well.