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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/22/2019 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    69Stanger408

    69 Mach 1 / 408W

    Getting closer.....
  2. 3 points
    bigmal

    69 Convertible build

    That will make a nice donor car for the rebuild. :)
  3. 3 points
    69Stanger408

    69 Mach 1 / 408W

  4. 3 points
    Caseyrhe

    Finally got a Marti Report

    Wether it’s a 1 of 1 or 1 of 7000, it’s a 69 Stang. It’s 50 years old!! I can’t count the number of people I’ve sent to the chiropractor due to them snapping their heads around to get a glimpse of my 69 or 70 while out for a cruise. What about that poor guy under his wife’s thumb wishing he could have a older Stang. I hear so many comments about people either not liking the coupes and or the fastbacks. It’s 50 years old, still running, still snapping necks, and you know there’s prob not even a third of them still around. All mine, even the 82, are all 1 of 1 in my book and yours should too. Built not bought!!
  5. 2 points
    DocWok

    New Valves in not-new heads

    If you correctly blue the valves i.e. apply it correctly, very thin - tap the valve up and down a couple of times without rotating it and it shows a correct seat, then lapping the valves will achieve nothing extra.
  6. 2 points
    barnett468

    Wheel Play – Options?

    Unfortunately, steering boxes can not be fully rebuilt, and typically are never as good as new when they are "rebuilt", because the worm gears wear and are not available, and when they wear, the steering will still have play, but some people try to reduce this play by over tightening the adjustment. This being said, a steering box that has play in the bearings will have less play after they are replaced. If one wants to properly rebuild a steering box that has worn gears, they can send the gears out to have then welded and refaced, however, this is a fairly expensive operation, but it shouldn't need to be done again until long after most of us are dead and buried.
  7. 2 points
    Bolted on a wilwood master cylinder, powder coated the dash vents and now I'm replacing the felt lining
  8. 2 points
    newstang

    My Son Mike's 69 Mach 1 Restoration

    who's gonna mow the other half of that lawn :-)
  9. 2 points
    Mike and I had a big day this past weekend. We finally got the car off the rotisserie and all painted with rust inhibitor. Just have a little lower quarter work to finish that could not be done on rotisserie.
  10. 2 points
    RPM

    In need of help - Engine noise

  11. 2 points
    Here's what it looks like electrically. As Mid said it could be the neutral safety switch, or you could be right and its the ignition switch. You could put the car in park or neutral, turn the key to "on" and jump from S to the battery lug on that side of the solenoid. If it starts but dies after you remove the short, then its either B to C in the ignition switch, the tach if you have one, or the resistor wire.
  12. 2 points
    Check your neutral safety switch (jiggle the shifter while key is in crank if automatic); broken wire in NSS jumper if manual tranny.
  13. 2 points
    Now that the engine is out, the tranny is much easier to take out and overhaul it as well. Don't forget to get your radiator flushed, recored, and painted nice and neat. And then there is that small paint smudge that needs to be fixed...I know it gnaws at you every time you look at it...Tee Hee Hee!
  14. 2 points
    While you're at it...
  15. 2 points
    aslanefe

    Bump steer?

    Lowering the upper control arms 1" and modifying them to move ball joint back to increase the caster improved the handling on my cars.
  16. 2 points
    Mach1 Driver

    The Ultimate Kill Switch ?

    On Page 1 of the PDFs below, it shows three methods to disable the ignition. Page 2 shows three ways to disable the fuel, and page three shows how to use a magnet and reed switch to turn those systems off. The advantage of a magnetic reed switch is that it can be hidden behind any plastic part and no one will know where it is or how to turn it off. With a normal kill switch you run the risk that the thief will find the switch. This won't outsmart a determined thief, particularly one with a tow truck, but it will stop most. These are the magnets on my key chain. These little guys are very strong for their size and are normally used as jewelry clasps. They come in pairs with a small through hole down the axis and a larger hole that goes partway down on the other end. I used 30 lb mono-filament, tied a knot and pulled it into the oversize hole. Pull on the loop and you can separate and hold one of the magnets. If you don’t want to hang the magnets off your key chain you could just let the magnet grab on to a chunk of steel somewhere in the car and it won’t go anywhere. I prefer to remove the magnet from the vehicle. The reed switch sits to the right of the magnets. It is small but the electrical specs are more than adequate for the job. This is a demonstration of how well the magnet and reed switch work. Here we have an easily removable piece of plastic trim. The reed switch is attached to the inside with a piece of Scotch tape. The ohmmeter is connected to each side. The magnet is attached to the ohmmeter with scotch tape and supported by the mono-filament line. The magnet is about 1/2” away from the reed switch and has successfully closed the switch- you can see from the ohmmeter that it is not an open circuit but has 14.6 ohms. This rather high resistance is probably due to my ratty old alligator clips, but even this is more than adequate to operate the relay shown in the PDFs, and get you on your way. KILL SWITCH PAGE3.pdf kill switch page1.pdf kill switch page2.pdf
  17. 2 points
    Nice work there, i am up on the central coast, empire bay.
  18. 2 points
    bartzzimpson

    15x10 Magnum 500s

    A bit late, I know, but yes I have just put this setup on my car. Wheel Vintiques 15x10s with 5.5" backspace. According to CJ Pony, I bought their last 2 wheels and they are now out of production. Sumitomo HTR 2000 295/50/R15 tyres. These have a 12mm (0.5 inch) narrower section width (sidewall-to-sidewall) than the same size BF Goodrich TAs and I prefer the tread pattern over the TAs. I am running aftermarket 1" lower leaf springs from Eaton Detroit Springs. The quarter panel lips have been rolled slightly as a precaution but it's not necessary for me (the rear of the car sits high enough and I don't carry back seat passengers over bumpy roads). Internally I have 35mm clearance between the leaf spring and the tyre. And yes, that's how you spell "tyre" ;-) Externally, the sidewall lines up exactly with the wheel arch lip. All said and done, perhaps 6" backspace would have been better and given me more clearance between the rubber and the quarter panel. And you can always reduce 6" backspace to 5.75" by adding a 0.25" spacer (if you dare). Pictures attached...
  19. 2 points
    You sure this isn't your problem?
  20. 2 points
    Midlife

    67-70 Cougar

    Maybe you need to change the name of the company to "Cougars to Fear" or "Ford/Lincoln/Mercury to Fear" or "Nothing to Fear but Fear Itself!"
  21. 2 points
    aslanefe

    Make parking brake switch

    Here is how you reproduce the not yet reproduced 69-70 parking brake switch. Make the ABS body and the end by 3D printing. Make a bending jig to bend the beryllium copper contact to right shape and bend the contact strips. Heat treat the contact. Assemble and secure the parts. You are done. Changed the original design a little bit so the contact does not break due to fatigue like the originals did. Cycled the black switch 2500 times on the 70 Cougar pedal I have off the car; it did not brake and did not stop working so installed it on my 69 Grande. Left to right on the pictures below are; broken original switch, 3D printed ABS parts, contact, final product.
  22. 2 points
    Caseyrhe

    Ignition kill switch with key

    She never leaves my sight when she's out, but I carry a 9mm
  23. 1 point
    barnett468

    New Valves in not-new heads

    Lapping them will tell you if everything is correct or not with the seats and valve face. I always lap them but you do not need to blue them and this can actually inerfere with the lapping process. Also, not all cylinder head machinists do the same level of quality, therefore, it is entirely possible that if you have them redone, they might not be as good as the are now, and if this occurs, you would have paid to have a lesser quality job done on them.
  24. 1 point
    RPM

    Power Window Options

    Glue has come a long way in the last 50 years, so don't be afraid to use it. I'd use whatever style is currently in car. No need to buy more stuff than you need to. I used a Spal conversion kit, and put the switches in the center console.
  25. 1 point
    1969_Mach1

    In need of help - Engine noise

    Great news. In your video, it sounded like the old familiar fuel pump noise.
  26. 1 point
    bigmal

    In need of help - Engine noise

    You nailed it. So grateful I thought I was up for another rebuild. I took the old fuel pump off and blanked the hole. Quiet as a mouse. Thanks.
  27. 1 point
    Kris

    69 Convertible build

    New floors installed and my son being my helper drilling out the rear seat back spot welds to work on the axle tunnel. I didn’t get any pictures of the repairs made to the tunnel but have some with the seat back pulled out and reinstalled. Replaced the taillight panel also.
  28. 1 point
    Midlife

    I dont know how i feel about this mustang,,

    Fixed your typo.
  29. 1 point
    mustangstofear

    1968 Cougar

    The original color was Autumn Green, not a very attractive color. We had the owner check out the new 2019 Bullitt green, he did and we are going with that. I think it will look really nice.
  30. 1 point
    Mike65

    Head gasket issue? (No it was a wiped cam)

    CV from everything I have seen after 24 years in the auto business that milky gunk in the radiator & the inside of the valve cover sounds to me like you got coolant in the oil.
  31. 1 point
    I agree. Also, Standard Motor Products use to have a performance line called Blue Streak. They have brought some of it back. I have seen Blue Streak spark plug wires and distributor cap on Summit Racing's website. For an OEM distributor I'd first try to get Blue Streak. Other than that, Napa's Echlin line is usually fairly good if you just want to walk into a parts store to get it.
  32. 1 point
    engine compartment walls could use some cleaning and paint. Maybe some Ni/Cu brakes lines bent and installed. And while you've got that stuff out, I'd suggest a full rebuild of the steering and suspension... I mean, you know, SINCE you're in there.
  33. 1 point
    He’s the devil...
  34. 1 point
    RogerC

    Finally got a Marti Report

    So I've owned the car for more than 35 years and I ordered a Deluxe Marti Report earlier this week. Built Friday December 6th 1968. A nothing special mustang and why I've had no reservation whatsoever of modifying this car.
  35. 1 point
    lanky

    Who has an aftermarket brake booster?

    I know of them, everyone likes their service. My problem is that questionable cores (rust/pitting/missing parts) are being sold for hundreds of dollars and it's a gamble. I am not against an original at all, but I have a problem shelling that kind of money out. I haven't been able to find a reasonably priced core or original, because everyone seems to know they aren't that common.
  36. 1 point
    unilec

    15x10 Magnum 500s

    So is that how you bought the car, with the gold stripes, or have you restored your car? Love the 4 post by the way, something i need to invest in, lying on my back under the car is really getting old now, and so am I. :-(
  37. 1 point
    Midlife

    Reaching a Milestone

    My harness refurbishment business just reached a major milestone: 500 underdash harnesses have been refurbished and sold to customers. When I started out in March, 2008, I thought that there might be sufficient need to make this a hobby business, defined by the IRS as having no consecutive years of making a profit. As of 2011, I had to register as a business, as the demand for these services was greater than I originally thought! I started out thinking that the distribution of harnesses by production year would largely reflect two factors: how many Mustangs were built and the cost of reproduction harnesses. Mustang productions peaked in 65/66, declining all the way through 73. Reproduction harnesses start out at ~$500 for the earliest years, growing to ~$1000 for 1970. No reproductions are available for 71-73. I expected a reasonably flat distribution from 65through 70, with a bit higher demand for the later years. What actually happened was much different: The biggest surprise is that 1969 dominates all other years, accounting for 26% of all of my work. The next highest year is 66, 67, and 70, each running about 13%. 1968 accounts for about 10%. I think this data is telling me that 1969 is by far the most popular year Mustang, and that the 71-73 demand is much lower than other years. We’ll see if this changes over the next few years. Thanks for reading!
  38. 1 point
    Midlife

    Reaching a Milestone

    Last day to receive harnesses is May 23; I will be down until November/December timeframe. I'll post when the business is backup and running. Sorry for the inconvenience, but I do have to get the house and garage repaired due to damage from Hurricane Michael, which requires everything removed from the dwellings.
  39. 1 point
    New plugs and wires, and straightened up the cabling a little. Looking better!
  40. 1 point
    cavboy78

    Hedman Elite 88658 reviews

    I will have to chime in for the FPA longtubes. Expensive, but you get what you pay for. Fits my 70 with a 351w, cable clutch, and borgeson steering box. Never thought i'd get longtubes to fit in that space, but they dropped in perfectly. fit and finish is top notch and still look great 10 years later.
  41. 1 point
    We install a small screw to keep the wind lace down.
  42. 1 point
    stangman69

    Fox body AC system in a 1969 Mustang?

    Great idea though, jkish. If the underdash component fit, theoretically you could fab up duct work and get pressure hoses made up to fit. You'd still have to figure out the control board - would you use the Fox control panel or aftermarket or ____? As the others have said, by the time you do all that, factoring in your time, you'd probably be better off going with a COTS (commercial off the shelf) system. Nate
  43. 1 point
    danno

    Fox body AC system in a 1969 Mustang?

    The compressor is maybe the only thing that would work in your coupe. If you have an AC car already, then it probably would work, but like Mike said, getting the fittings and hoses could be a problem. If you do not have a factory AC car, then go with a new kit ( maybe without the compressor??)
  44. 1 point
    MikeStang

    Fox body AC system in a 1969 Mustang?

    Would probably take more effort than its worth honestly, especially after removing the stuff from one car and getting new hoses made up to fit, re-sealing everything etc... Just spring for the classic auto Air kit and be done with it.
  45. 1 point
    Ridge Runner

    Ohio front plate going away

    Oh you silly people ,complaining about a .10 tax ...come on out to Cali. We will show what a gas tax really is haha! Wait a minute ...that aint funny :(
  46. 1 point
    Dash is complete. Assembled it today. Tested it out. All good. If the gauges don’t work now, it’s something else.
  47. 1 point
    That kit looks familiar...
  48. 1 point
    RPM

    Crashed my Fastback - The rebuild thread

    She's looking real good. Better than her younger days. 50? Hell, I'd do her :)
  49. 1 point
    Nice car you got there, mate! I'm actually wondering, if it's not a secret, of course, how much did it cost you up until this point, and how much do you think is everything gonna cost? I mean, from now on. Thanks for the updates and hopefully we'll see more from you! Congratulations, my friend!
  50. 1 point
    fvike

    Crashed my Fastback - The rebuild thread

    Now that the new paint has rested enough that I'm comfortable to work around the car. First thing we did was to put some rust primer on the welds in the raised trans tunnel and then a new layer of U-Pol Raptor bedliner. After a week, I wanted to start bolting stuff on. Started with the fuel lines. The front one went on ok, but the one going back to the tank did not fit due to the larger wheelhouses. So we tried to bend them, but did a wrong bed, tried to correct it, but the line was basically screwed. This was stainless pre bent lines from Classic Tube. So, after that failure I opened up the Classic Tube brakelines. These were rusted. Bummer, I thought I had gotten stainless lines, but apparently I hadn't. They've been stored in my barn for 5 years, probably to moist there for them. So need to get new brakelines too. The whole day was a 2 steps forward - 1 step back kinda deal. So, I started to install some Dynamat. Not much, because it was getting late, but I wanted to have more than the front fuel line installed in a days work. Not a productive day, but that's how it goes sometimes. However, did get some sunrays on the paint a few days before: I'm calling a Win on that.


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