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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/17/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
  2. 5 points
    Midlife

    Always make sure you use the proper fuses

    A new meaning for the term "bullet connectors".
  3. 5 points
    RobotMan

    My Son Mike's 69 Mach 1 Restoration

    Mike took a cool pic today in the shop. His car body in the background with his brother’s Mach in the foreground.
  4. 4 points
    Silverjade

    My car is 51 today

    If I'm reading the date code correctly, today is 51 years since that glorious day in Metuchen. (I winder if that is an oxymoron) :) JIM P.S. Dog is not original equipment
  5. 4 points
    Midlife

    What should I fix first?

    What to fix first? Make sure your checkbook and/or savings account is 3x larger than what you think it needs to be.
  6. 3 points
    Pretty cool pic from last night. Mike working in blaster with car in foreground at night!
  7. 3 points
    aslanefe

    Door alignment

    Hope OP does not mind. It attaches in place of the jack pad. Made with parts from a swing set and a piece of square tubing. Door sits on the 2x4 so the edge of it does not get damaged. I also put some padding on the wood before I put the door on it. If you balance the door, it does not tip over. Use the bungee chords to squeeze/hold the door between posts after I load the door with the hinged posts down. I install/adjust doors alone with it.
  8. 3 points
    kevin31

    69 gt sr

    Hi there!! Done some photo shooting with my friend close to my place... I am still waiting the ones with the girls. I managed to catch only one with the iphone...No worries, the trunk is OK :) :)
  9. 3 points
    Vicfreg

    Dakota Digital Install

    Here is my VHX box installed. I am using AAW wiring harness. The box is mounted to my Vintage Air system.
  10. 2 points
    I use every bit of it. I don’t think you could ever make it too big!
  11. 2 points
    barnett468

    Restoring a Rim-Blow Sterring Wheel

    And just in case you haven't noticed, your steering wheel is on the wrong side!
  12. 2 points
    Vicfreg

    Remembering 9-11-2001

    At one time, I worked in the #2 World Trade Center (South Tower) on the 87th floor. Years later, on 9-11-2001, colleagues and friends perished in the terrorist attack Remembering them today. Thoughts and prayers go to all the families who were impacted by this tragic event. WGI was an Engineering company that today is part of AECOM. The legacy company I worked for had people from the 78th to the 92 floor on #2WTC. Alan Bondarenko, WGI Carlos Cortes, WGI Robert J. DeAngelis, WGI Frank De Martini, Port Authority of NY & NJ Ulf R. Ericson, WGI James Gartenberg WGI Julien J. Studley, WGI Peter Gyulavary, WGI Vassilios G. Haramis, WGI Frederick Kuo Jr., WGI Ming Hao Liu, WGI Jan Maciejewski, IT consultant . Rocco Medaglia, G.M.P. Inc. Frank V. Moccia, WGI Emelda Perry, WGI Anthony Portillo, WGI Patricia Puma, WGI Luis C. Revilla, WGI Oleh D. Wengerchuk, WGI
  13. 2 points
    Midlife

    Scary Steering Feel

    I wonder if there is too much slop in the rag joint in the steering column...
  14. 2 points
    mustangstofear

    66 - 77 Bronco

    We will now offering full turnkey builds, with the Coyote drive train. We plan on developing a lot of new parts, including our own suspension.
  15. 2 points
    danno

    Bilstein part numbers needed

    I must tell this story of maybe how cheap I actually am. I bought my 69 convert in about 1984. I bought new Monroe shocks for it with a " Lifetime Guarantee" in about 1985. Last month I installed new Monroe shocks ( all four) for the 5th time since I bought my car. I have the records. About every 6 years or so. Every time I do it the new shocks are free; zero cost because of the guarantee. I bet Monroe hates those like me, taking advantage or their programs. Maybe they are not the best shocks, but when you can get new ones every 6 or 7 years for zero cost, it is hard to consider other options. Last month the would have cost me $170 if I had not had the guarantee.
  16. 2 points
    mustangstofear

    Seats

    Go with TMI, that should jack you up in the air high enough.
  17. 2 points
    69Stanger408

    Seats

    Must be nice :)
  18. 2 points
    Today he is pulling a motor
  19. 2 points
    josephqatarcarguy

    1970 mustang fastback Qatar

    few pics of my girl
  20. 2 points
    whoapony

    Who makes the best headliners?

    Why do you say they copied you? It doesn't look like MTF headliner, its made differently and according to you its not as good, so is nobody else allowed to make a 1 piece hahah. I'm enjoying mine and it looks great, and once again it shipped free so no worries to me on that part. As for reviews I've seen many that are happy with the TMI one and gripe about MTFs price so I guess its all about perspective and for you since its a competitor you're not happy about it haha.
  21. 2 points
    Midlife

    Who makes the best headliners?

    .A. "Vinnie" Musetto made the best headline: Headless Body in Topless Bar, 1983. Oh...headliners, not headlines. My bad...
  22. 2 points
    Good afternoon. I just purchased my second 1969 Mustang. This time I got the fastback that I always wanted. The car is complete and everything is exactly the way that I would have built it myself, except the interior. The interior seems to be all new Mach 1 style interior. One thing that sticks out is the red stripe in the seat that doesn't match the car. It just looks off to me. Since my car is a full restomod mechanically, I would like to go restomod on the interior as well. I like the seats from TMI, Procar and Mustangs to Fear. It seems you can get Katzkin leather with MTF which is a bonus. I've also seen the TMI interiors at some shows and thought it was pretty good for the money. The problem that I am having is that I would really like to switch from an all black interior and go with something like a saddle color. However, I have not seen anyone making aftermarket door panels with color options. Anyone aware of something? If I could do saddle dash, doors and seats and keep the rest black I think that would look good. Has anyone used the factory black doors and gone with a different color seat. At a minimum I would like to get rid of the woodgrain pieces in the interior. Nothing against them, I just don't think they match the theme of the car. Something sportier would do the trick. I could go full custom on the interior, but I really don't want to be without the car for months at this point. I want to drive it!! I am attaching a few pics to give everyone an idea of what I have to start with. Any ideas are appreciated.
  23. 2 points
    mustangstofear

    Craig from New Zealand

    He is :) the one picture it looks more like a Root Beer color.
  24. 2 points
    mustangstofear

    Craig from New Zealand

    Took a few shots with my phone from the photo shoot for the magazine. They did Craig's car and a 67 fastback we just finished with the 5.8 motor.
  25. 2 points
    RobotMan

    My Son Mike's 69 Mach 1 Restoration

    It is in the bay behind the door behind the blue Mach. A 68 Bullit.
  26. 2 points
    Ridge Runner

    Door alignment

    Yes ,i was simply explaning how the factory did it when it could not be adjusted . 69 -70 is not the easiest of the doors to adjust ,the front door post is not flat ,it tapers inward at the front so the slightest adjustment one direction can change another fitting point . The biggest problem i have found with 69 -70 is the sloted holes in the door do not slot far enough and need to somtimes be slotted mor to get full travel inward ,especially the bottom area when the door bottom will not go in far enough the meet flush with the rocker
  27. 2 points
    mustangstofear

    1968 Cougar

    This isn't the Cougar, but a 67 the same color. Customer wanted yellow calipers to match his yellow pin stripe. We also matched the grey stripe to his Forgeline wheels.
  28. 2 points
    Vicfreg

    Learning to drive a stick ?

    Wow...too funny...... This is shifting...….watch the whole thing, not long...vintage Ford Racing video....
  29. 2 points
    lanky

    Found a free '69 Coupe

    Someone take this, the guy has it listed for free!!! https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/pts/d/hayward-free-1969-mustang/6960852205.html
  30. 2 points
    SWPruett

    Front suspension ideas...

    Street or Track has a well engineered suspension solution for just about any reasonable budget or plan. And Shaun is a class act all around. Support before, during and after the sale is extremely valuable and he has genuine expertise and proven results to back it up.
  31. 2 points
    aslanefe

    Door alignment

    Open the door, hold the top aft with one hand and bottom aft with other hand and twist the door (bottom in, top out). That's how I lined up my original undamaged door which was exactly like yours.
  32. 2 points
    danno

    What should I fix first?

    Set your priorities. I did that 30 years ago, and still working on items. Brakes and steering first. Some of the prices and items seem way out of line. Get it driving safely first, and then work on the smaller items. Repair things as they break.
  33. 2 points
    barnett468

    What should I fix first?

    If you are seriously considering having this shop do anything on your car, I strongly suggest they give you a separate price for every single item AND the exact brand and part number for each pat and the exact labor costs. The labor could be bulked together where several items in the same area are being changed at the same time like the front suspension. Then post that info and we can tell you for certain if you are getting hosed or not, but from what it looks like, you may very well be.
  34. 2 points
    JayEstes

    What should I fix first?

    Here's my take - some of that may be reasonable and some of it definitely is not. For instance, it's definitely not a good recommendation to put in performance suspension & handling for $5K. That's NOT mandatory. You can get new stock UCA's for lass than $50 per side (that's a lot cheaper than $350/side). Don't put in 620lb springs up front unless you want it to ride like a covered wagon. I think stock springs are 300 lb/in. Don't lower it, but instead: The top 3 upgrades for front suspension improvement are: Redrill your shock towers to do the "Shelby/Arning drop" (if not already done) with new UCA's ($20 template + $100 for both UCA's) Put in a 1in" sway bar. (best bang for the buck I think and makes the car safer to drive) $140 New KYB Gas Adjust shocks (Maybe $100 for both) After that, you'll need Tie rod bushings ($40ish), stock perches ($40), new spring seats ($10), some Tie-rod work So that's like $400, and it will drive fine (not like a racecar, but you won't shatter your teeth going over the railroad tracks either) On the rear, I would not buy new springs unless they can show you they are bent or ruined. Just New KYB gas adjust shocks and see how it is ($100), maybe new leaf spring bushings if she's rattly. Since there are traction bars, this will be more work. So that's maybe $200 on the rear, and most all the big stuck on suspension for like $600-$700 in parts. If you do this work yourself (only thing really dangerous in compressing front springs). If you want to pay to have this done, $1500 is probably not outrageous, but I wouldn't buy new leafs. if they say they are "shot" make them show you how. Brakes are most important: replace all the rubber brake lines, 3x maybe ~$50 each. The following statement however - makes NO SENSE to me: "Found rear brakes contaminated with rear axle gear oil." I have no idea how this could happen. Sound like BS to me, and I would ask about it. These systems are not connected, and I can't see how they could be thru parts failure, so I call BS. Get a new drivers drum if you can't find someone to machine it. New pads (cheap) and get new rear cylinders (cheap). My brake backing plates are grooved some, but still work ok - weld and remachine is a fair bit of expensive work, and I'd try it without doing that. They don't mention the brake distribution block or the proportioning valve. The prop valve should be taken off and have a new seal kit put it - virtual certainty it needs that ($35 for parts). --- Engine: That's an expensive radiator. I bought a 3-row copper for about $350. You can get a thermostat for $5, you probably don't need a fuel pipe - I wouldn't do that. If you flush out the fuel tank, there is no need to move the fuel filter ahead of the fuel pump (non stock). New rubber connections ($10), New fuel pump $30, new filter $5. That's all that's required. If they can show you the leaks on the manifold you should fix it. And you can look for this yourself, by simply wiping off the front and back and driving it around. If it's leaking oil you should be able to see it. personally, I don't need to remove the Ac compressor to work on the intake so - my opinion - not required. Your oil pan probably is leaking. Do you need to spend $1000 to fix it? NO. This is a hard job to get the old one off and put on a new one that doesn't leak, but honestly, you can keep the oil filled while you save some $'s to have it fixed later for cheaper than that. Fix the motor mounts. If they are original, they probably are cracked. $320 seems like an ok price to do that. Engine balancer MAY be needed.- if you can't get it to run. But if it runs/timing is OK, I'd do this later. For the love of God, do the all the AC/PS/alternator/fan belts yourself - any person driving a 69 oughta be able to do the belts. No idea on the improvised trans inspection plate, but it's probably fine (it's a piece of sheet metal to keep crap out of the flex-plate starter engage area). look at it yourself and see how bad it is. Trans mount is good chance it is bad. $125 seems reasonable I'd note the rear axle seals as something to watch, and do them later. That alone is like $300. buy your own heater hoses. $340 is outrageous unless he is putting Stainless braid on them. Elec: I don't know what he means "seat plugs" but they are dang expensive. Fix the electrical that's broken and nothing else. he's only giving you an AC diagnosis, which means there is another $1500 of cost to get the AC going probably. Can wait. Two windows at 60mph is usually okay for a lot of the US. Body: If the roof drip rails are leaking, that can allow body rust which you don't want. you are looking at a lot of cost that may affect the paint. so this is expensive. Depending on the quality level of your paint, this may or may not be worth it. Just do whatever to avoid rust. OMG - do NOT spend $600 on the damn clock - buy a wrist watch! $35!!! worst case - pull it yourself and mail it off to be fixed. Dash: LED light kit and printed circuit panel is all you need. your fuel gauge either works or doesn't. If it doesn't, I would change the sender in the tank for $30, and not buy a new gauge (which is probably fine, but inaccurate - they all are BTW). Steering wheel can probably wait at $1250!!! Good lord!. Fix the windows. those mechanisms probably need an overhaul - they are cheap systems, and if not adjusted properly, can bind and be really frustrating. UGH. That's a lot of stuff. I'm not a fan of having other dudes do my car work, and so I don't know about labor costs. Anything over $100hr is questionable. $80 may be reasonable. My costs above are for parts, not labor (all of mine is free, so I on'y see parts costs). This stuff is not that hard to fix yourself. It just takes time. If you have more $ than time - this shop may not be that bad, but there is some questionable stuff in here - other stuff looks reasonable. it's a mixed bag. Good luck.
  35. 2 points
    I look at it this way. I have plenty of time and it ain’t going anywhere. Plus if I don’t save the car it may end up at the crusher and be one more piece of history we never get back. And making a semi-track car out of it, originality doesn’t mean a thing. I haven’t really saw anything availability wise that worries me. It’s mind blowing what is available now versus when I had my 66 in high school 15 years ago.
  36. 2 points
    " So I got this from one of my best friends for $600." I think you need to find a new friend.
  37. 2 points
    I love driving down the road on a nice day. Top is down and the 69 is running good. That is the best feeling in the world until a cooler car comes up and passes you.
  38. 2 points
    barnett468

    What should I fix first?

    Well are those prices parts and labor? $340.00 for heater hoses? I would post exactly what radiator they are suggesting because it is likely pos small tube chinese one. I have a real 3 row large tube original style rad here that has a new us made core for sale.
  39. 2 points
    BuckeyeDemon

    69 mach 408w build

    checked the clutch/bell fit. had to shorten the TOB sleeve to clear the clutch discs. engine is finished with detail.
  40. 1 point
    whoapony

    Yukon Trac Loc rebuild question

    Just an update, Quick Performance returned my call and confirmed that the guides are not needed on aftermarket units due to tighter tolerances.
  41. 1 point
    cavboy78

    Gauges

    You can buy a thermostat housing with a threaded port already in it. . https://www.cjponyparts.com/thermostat-housing-with-threaded-port-260-289-302-351w-1965-1973/p/TH16/
  42. 1 point
    JET 445

    Door alignment

    Wow, so much debate and so much bad information, all he needed to do was adjust the hinges. The reason body shop guys and assembly line workers bash and bend things is because they need to get it out the door as quickly as possible and get onto the next car but 50 years later that is never the best solution. Take the striker off, adjust the door and refit the striker ,simple, easy.
  43. 1 point
    stangs-R-me

    Brothers 69 Mach

    Funny, my parents had a '78 Country Squire wagon in Champagne Gold and it looked good with all the woodgrain to accent it. Never thought this color fit a Mustang until I saw a '69 Mach with all the black out to compliment it. Very nice work. Those inner headlight buckets should be "blacked out" like the factory did … they really stand out on lighter color cars and now would be the time before you get any further. I did it on my Calypso Coral car after the fact back in the 80's because I hated how that orange glowed out of those corners and later found out it was actually something the factory did too. Doug
  44. 1 point
    danno

    Where’s this go?

    I can't be sure, but it looks like a tape measure to me.
  45. 1 point
    Rsanter

    Interesting Bumper Stickers

    I had a ranchero that had one of the best bumper stickers. ”the Indians had bad immigration lawsL
  46. 1 point
    Vicfreg

    Coil location 1970 351w in 69 Mach 1

    1st Pic below is from a high end restoration I took a picture of at Carlisle, 2 barrel small block. Zoom in, coil is under passenger side of air cleaner, right behind the intake manifold heater hose tube. 2nd pic is a Cleveland, coil on drivers side front of block 3rd pic is my 393 stroker, coil mounted to the back of the intake manifold, near firewall, on drivers side.
  47. 1 point
    smh00n

    What should I fix first?

    Another one for brakes and steering. New standard stuff is all I would use (and am using) The hourly rate is what I'd look at. To redo the front and rear with stock stuff I reckon a bloke by himself would do that in 2 days so a 'pro' should take less than that. In our part of the world mechanics would be getting around $80-100 an hour so that's 15 hours. If you're halfway handy you could have a go yourself. They are a pretty simple suspension set up and you do 1 side at a time so you can refer to the other if you get lost.
  48. 1 point
    RPM

    69 mach 408w build

    Engine porn at its best!
  49. 1 point
    Mike65

    Mike65's 69 Coupe build

    Today was a nice day so I rolled the engine out of the garage & installed the valve covers & the headers. The bottom end is stock, the heads are Ford Racing M-6049-X306 w/Ford Racing 1.6 roller rockers, cam is Ford Racing M-6250-B303, & the headers are Hedman 88408 Shorties.
  50. 1 point
    Brian Conway

    Disc brakes question

    you have chosen wisely.


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