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  2. There is one other component in the system that you can check. It's the brake proportioning valve for the rears. It is something to check, but if no leaks and pedal goes to floor, I think Mike65's suggestion makes most sense. You may need to pull the booster and see it if has fluid in it. If you put the pedal to the floor fluid is leaking past some seal somewhere. if you do that several times does the fluid level go down, or stay same? If it stays same, I think it would have to mean master has a seal that is not working. If fluid level is going down, it must be going into the booster.
  3. Today
  4. I was excited when the cam came and didn't checked even if the signing corresponds with description sheet. Better than pulling it out was for me to check the timing :) - learning by doing.
  5. It was about $120 in parts and materials but I doubt you can find a better made MC bar A living legend that goes by the name "revolutions per minute" on forums.... oh yeah... it was you!
  6. Yesterday
  7. At 8 bucks each for those dual tubing clamps, I'm in the wrong business.
  8. The guys that did my shaft (I dropped you a PM) made sure I knew about that little issue of losing the washers. Hopefully this fixes it for you.
  9. About 1:15 away. We will probably run into each other at some point.
  10. Update: I took the drive shaft back to the company that made it and they found a thrust washer missing from inside the rear uni cap. This will make the uni offset about 1mm. I saw a washer on the floor of the garage and didn't recognise it so added to the washer box. This explains why the vibration got worse after changing the transmission bushing. Extremely happytto find that. They have put the shaft on their balancer and said it is slightly out of true. They are repairing it today and I am getting a new yoke and two new uni's just to be sure. I'll report back as soon as I have driven it again. Fingers crossed!!!
  11. Hi mate, that build looks great. Where abouts in Sydney are you? I'm in Woronora Heights.
  12. Nice progress. It sounds like you are having the typical rebuild issues. Nuttin ever goes easy.
  13. That's a nice looking Monte Carlo bar. Where did ya get it, and what's something like that cost?
  14. Try unbolting the master cylinder & pull it forward a little & make the back seal in the master cylinder is not leaking fluid into the brake booster. I have had this happen to me & it drove me nuts until I found it.
  15. Are your rear drums adjusted? If there's a lot of space between the pads and drum, your brake pedal will feel much as you described. The brake fluid must be going somewhere without affecting the braking ability.
  16. Thanks I will continiue to poke around. MC pumps fluid while bleeding.
  17. Too late to turn back now :) Heck, from what I can see your quarters are in better shape than mine that were repaired. I hope you're quicker than me after I took mine down to bare metal, 17 years for me before I drove it again :(
  18. It's been a while since I posted an update, and a lot has changed! After sitting about a year and a half on the waitlist, my body shop is ready to start on the car. I stripped the car of every last panel and bolt, in preparation for sending it off to Xpress Metal Cleaning in Phoenix, AZ. There I had it acid dipped to remove everything but the steal. Next week it gets picked up and delivered to the body shop to start the real work! The car did look pretty good before the dip, and people would ask me, "Why are you doing this, the car looks great as it is!" Well, one look at the quarter panels after the acid dip is all I needed to know that I did the right thing! Once we have it back and can look at it in person, we'll determine of the quarters will need to be reskinned. Right now I'm thinking yes. Teardown begins! Loaded up for transport: Squeaky clean after the dip:
  19. Years ago a guy on another forum asked if I could reproduced a dealer bumper sticker for him. So he gave me the picture on the left of the one on his bumper and I recreated the image filling in the damgaed areas and we had them printed.
  20. A quick internet search and up pops a few leads about people associated with Warren - Anderson Ford past. These folks may be will ing to help you.. Before 1933 the dealership called "Johnson Motor Company" when it was bought by Warren Anderson and renamed Warren-Anderson Ford. Now the "Ford Warren-Anderson" company DBA Fritts Ford" is privately held/owned by Marie J. Fritts. Corporate Address: 8000 Auto Dr Riverside, CA, 92504-4118. Write her a letter asking for copies of the companies history. Worst that can happen is she ignores you letter or respectfully declines. What have you got to loose? Maybe Jim Johnson, an auto dealer most of his life and whose father, Harold Johnson was affiliated with the old Warren-Anderson Ford dealership in Riverside, Try contacting him, he may be able to help. These sold on eBay some time ago. Keep us posted and good Luck! There is another one for sale, but it is pricey! https://www.ebay.com/itm/374323536073?hash=item57276be0c9:g:ojMAAOSwp8BjWf0q&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAABAH4ARnhGNtXiaAiBUW74NJlKAiw4tHAD4JemMhNNrRJWhR3D9gMtygl64fS3Y4Z2XqKn9ZkddOmgZX9DKYlliG52mi9M0BkPqLujxx71Uluac%2FSxD4Q0TISqRnUacVtSksiOGkQ4xocOGN7vBwpfDbrJFkLwaVMsmxFjBYgF39xtQFgLEyZkre74Z4kf9V6nr1GvFC1r%2BLzToP5GwgwSBd%2B9yK%2FzdGkOqX2DNb5JiF%2BB9LPs4uj3eG%2BIK5ZtELhZbGExQJe6Enx%2BNy7kpchm9IPWoA9OTIppy3AqzmH18iiabCTh64mvOrSeekY1t%2FH1x67kqoPEiPo4e1PxdX%2FxOXk%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9Tr17_hYQ
  21. Last week
  22. yep, I have this in my TKO600 aswell. np, happy to share the info! aint no way Im paying $40 dollars more, plus ship/tax for a shifter that's being resold. no offense to MDL, but the price gouging is insane.
  23. This is an all FORD original parts brake system? OK so probably take a look at the ' no resistance.'? Really sounds like a Master Cylinder failure. Inspect; brake push rod connections and in-out function. Brake booster pedal test (Shop Manual) and vacuum readings? Caliper pads are moving as well as the brake shoes? Poke around you'll get it. Brian
  24. Keep checking ebay for your plate frame. I had to in order to find one at a reasonable price. I bought mine years ago for $50, and when checking after you started this thread I saw where a guy is making aftermarket frames for half what I paid.
  25. No air in the lines, that I can tell. Solid bleed several times. Usually air in the lines feels squishy. The pedal goes right to the floor with no resistance.
  26. Sure sounds like you have air in the lines. Gravity feed works well for a one man job. I like and use a Motive pressure bleeder.
  27. Over the winter i hve been doing some work. One of the projects was replace the what were probably original rubber flex lines for the brakes. Last summer ( My first with the car) the brakes worked perfectly.. During the change I discovered tahat some P.O. had "spliced" the line to the rear brakes with a brass compression fitting. I relaced the line and installed a correct union and line. One line to the left front caliper was corroded so that was replace. That is all I changed. Now I cannot get any brake pressure. I have bled and bled brakes, good fluid flow, no leaks. The pedal goes to the floor and get a tiny bit of braking action near the floor. What am I missing. Everything worked fine before the change. Suggestions welcome
  28. I am with ya... I needed 3 beers after writing that darn post. Let me know if I can clarify anything. The video created by American AutoWire is a bit more generic and they use their wiring kit as a reference point. I still have the original Ford wiring harnesses in the car, so I created the diagram using the Ford wiring diagram as a reference point. It helps me keep things in context, because I will surely forget what I did a month later and have to spend time retracing my steps to refresh my memory.
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