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  1. Today
  2. I thought of something else. From what I understand, your negative wire from the battery runs directly to the mounting bolt of the alternator, is this correct? Measure the voltage drop in this wire when you have the fans and lights on, as I discussed above. Put a voltmeter + on the center lead terminal of the battery and the - of the voltmeter on the case of the alternator. With all fans and lights on, this better be under 0.1 volt.
  3. A lot of parts supplier shops have an alternator load tester. You can take it in and they put it on a spinning contraption and hook a load up to it to measure the voltage as the output current increases. Maybe you could send it back to the manufacturer to have it tested? Shipping makes that difficult. Maybe take it to a shop to measure the current when the fan and lights are on? That should be a 2 minute test if they have the clamp on ampmeter. I would hate to have you purchase a new alternator and find out the problem is something else. Have you checked the wire from the starter relay to the battery? This could also be a problem, even though it is not likely. I have seen these poorly contructed and causing an issue. Turn on the car and run all the fans and all the lights. Measure the voltage at each end of this wire. Put the + lead of a voltmeter right on the lead terminal of the battery and the - of the voltmeter on the wire going to the alternator from the starter solenoid. This will give you an idea if the voltage drop is in this wire. It is a slim chance, but I have seen these fail. I also know that, if everything is working correctly and the car is running, there should never be any current in this wire. All power the car needs to run everything should come from the alternator.
  4. I have the 6al box. The directions for my box show to hook it up that way but wanted to make sure before I cut the 90* end off my new gauge feed harness.
  5. I use the 12V switched source for my MSD box directly at the ignition switch. Yes there is a terminal at the ignition switch that has 12V in both run and start positions. For Mustangs that did not come with a factory tach, this is the same terminal the the original resistor wire is attached to.
  6. Unfortunately, the + wire from the key switch to the + terminal on the coil is a resistance wire on the factory harness. So you will not get the full 12 volts needed to run the MSD module. There is no good place to get the 12 volts when the key is in the "run" and "start" position. Which MSD box have you got? Some can work with a lower voltage because they have an internal relay system. For the kill switch, a switch rated for about 5 amps should work fine. Keep in mind that this switch should never see any amps going through it. It is off when you want to use the car. When it is on, you will not be trying to start the car. The only time the switch will see any current is when someone is trying to start the car without knowing about the switch. You also might be able to ask MSD the amperage needed for the switch, but I would think 5 amps is fine, 10 amps is plenty.
  7. Shortening or changing to a 4 ga. alternator charge wire isn't necessary. A 6 ga. charging wire should be fine since the the length you need isn't very long. Grounding: Battery ground to engine block. Then engine block to body somewhere near where a motor mount bracket attaches to the body. 4 ga cables for both of these should be fine. I also run a ground strap from the back if the passenger side cylinder head to the firewall. That ground could be smaller than 4 ga., 6 or 8 ga. would be fine. But again, I'm not convinced the alternator is working correctly. What brand alternator is it?
  8. I have a few wiring questions. I’ve installed a MSD box on my car and have a magnetic pickup distributor. I need an ignition wire to hook it to. I’m think it would be the red/green stripe wire that was originally on the coil +. Is that correct? My second questions is that on the MSD it has a white wire that can be used for a kill switch. Per the directions you run it to a toggle switch or button and then to ground. When you turn on the switch and ground it the car it will crank but won’t start. Do I need to use a specific amperage switch/ button for this? Ok my last question is what is the best wire to use for an electric choke? I’m also using a one wire alternator so Im not using the voltage regulator if any of those wires would do.
  9. Best way to measure amperage is with an inductive pickup as an accessory to a digital volt-ohm meter, and not cheap. The pickup is similar in concept to that used by a timing light around a spark plug.
  10. How do you check amperage at the alternator? FYI- I’m not using the voltage regulator, just the 1 wire from the Solenoid to the Alternator So, shorten the 1 wire. Should I change it to the 4 gauge? All grounds are with a 4 ga wire. (1) Ground from block to firewall,. (2) ground from battery to radiator support. (3) Ground from battery to Alternator, from there to block.
  11. Took her out for a spin today with no major issues!! A couple of rattles need to be located/fixed, get the front end aligned, new exhaust, and she’ll be good to go.
  12. Yesterday
  13. Thanks, that's a possibility though I'd have to buy a rectangular pair. This is what I was thinking about mounting in the airdam. 4" diameter I also have these on hand, 3.25 diameter. Final shape achieved & primed. I'll wet sand the entire thing next with 320 grit and re-prime. Once I get everything smooth I'll spray with some KBS rust seal and SEP. Hopefully that will add a layer of chip protection to the fiberglass.
  14. I wonder if the alternator is also working correctly.
  15. Danno, What Halogen lights and relays are you using? I have Sylvania Halogens, but no relays and they are not that bright.
  16. I am happy with Halogen lights, but you must have the headlight relays on both the high and low beam for the use of halogens to be of any value. Without headlight relays, use standard bulbs. I was amazed at the difference when I added the halogen bulbs and the relays.
  17. So the facts are that a #8 copper wire has 0.00063 ohms per foot at 68 degrees. Let's say your wire is 3 feet long from the alternator to the battery. That is 0.00189 ohms. If you have lights, fans, and everything on and drawing 100 amps, that is a voltage drop of .189 volts in the connection between the alternator and the battery. There are also voltage drops in the connections on each end and at the fuse. And then there is also a voltage drop on the negative wires to the battery. One thing you can do is meaure the voltage drop from one end of the wire to the alternator to the other. Use clipleaads on your voltmeter and measure from the bolt on the back of the alternator to the battery terminal. Start your car, and turn on lights, engine fans, and heater fan inside the car. If that voltage exceeds 1 volt, that is your problem. Also measure the voltage between the ground terminal on the alternator and the minus terminal of the battery. Maybe you have dirty connections on the ground wire from the engine block to the firewall? These tests will prove it. I also have to wonder about the use of a 60 amp fuse with a 140 amp alternator. If this fuse has not blown, that tells me you are never using more than 60 amps. I would not worry about the lights for now, figure out the charging problem. Adding the relays on the lights is a great idea, and can be done later. You have different things contributing to the problem. Alternator wire, ground wire connections (maybe), weak headlight wire connections, headlight wire voltage drops, etc.
  18. Had a good cruise last night, about 200 cars up and down the street. Now gave an 8 ga alternator wire. Last night with headlight on it read 13.5 . The drive home at night was about an hour, read 13.5. Without likes it’s 14+. Checked wires when I got home, none were hot, either was the alternator, should I change the Alternator wire from 8 to 4 gauge? Someone on the Facebook Cruise page posted my car
  19. Ridge Runner

    Riots

    I say we give them a box of explosives ,if they can set them selves on fire think what they can do with dynamite
  20. I have rectangular ones on lower opening on my 70 Grande like you did on the second photo. Works good and very difficult to notice them unless they are on.
  21. Last week
  22. Having second thoughts about fog light location. Too low? Maybe rectangular lights in lower opening?
  23. I guess I wasn't clear. It looks like only a short length is needed. Absolutely nothing wrong with that. Resistance to current flow in a length of wire increases as the length of wire increases. That's partly why when batteries are moved to the trunk larger size cables are needed. So for this and most automotive wiring situations, shorter is better when it comes to function.
  24. mustangstofear

    Riots

    Reminds of my first date LOL
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