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  3. Call Shaun at Street or Track Or John or Sherri at Opentracker racing products They are both great assets to our hobby and will steer you straight.
  4. https://www.foxnews.com/us/west-virginia-governor-virginia-counties-unhappy-liberal-government-should-just-secede
  5. Just build your own. Put the tubes where you want them...
  6. Following https://autoworksparts.com/ Instagram, they announced they have a deal with all dakota digital products. Definitely give autoworks a call if you dont have instagram and they can give you a price, I've been told by others its a $335 discount (friend got quoted for 67-68 rtx gauges), tax & shipping is not included. Will post on here with what I get with the RTX 69 mustang gauges,
  7. 70 vert, 302 C4, power steering, hooker long tube. Did not have to use the adapter for slave cylinder....had plenty of clearance
  8. I have Patriot Ceramic Long Tube Tri-Y Headers on my '68, and I am very happy with them as well.
  9. I did the Mustang Steve Cobra brake conversion, worked great. I sourced some NOS Cobra Brakes from eBay supplier that buys old Ford inventory.
  10. I think that is probably ok then. I will have to go back and look at my gap, but appears to be the same.
  11. Just had a look at mine Vic and it appears to be the same as the pic but I’ve got a 2 1/2 inch gap between the radiator on condenser. I purchased it through classic auto air and it came with all the brackets attached and bolted straight in.
  12. Framing in process Rear bumper mounts New taillight panel & filler mod Right quarter panel cut out, new outer wheelhouse welded in. Old one trimmed 2 inches otbd of flange & new one mated to it with flange trimmed off. Fabbing right quarter scoop & ducting.
  13. With the original Bendix booster on my 69 Mach 1 the master cylinder can be removed without having to remove the brake booster. I guess I got lucky. From what I understand, the clutch rod from the Z-bar to the pedal might interfere with a 9" diameter booster. I don't know how true that is. If that rod clears a 9" diameter booster, that would solve some issues with stock clutch linkage and a Borgeson power steering box.
  14. Yesterday
  15. I do not recommend the granada disc brake (no offense to those who have it but thats a very old conversion kit/mod from back n the day. I had it and its a 1 piston caliper and did not like the stopping power. $700+ for a granada swap is pretty steep, you can get a 4 piston wilwood kit $643.00 maybe even cheaper if you buy them through summitracing.com this will accommodate the 15" wheel i believe. for the rear you can go with wilwood rear disc brake aswell other options is use the brakes from a 99-04 cobra or 2013-19 mustang GT, you can buy the adapters from mustang steve but you will need to farm out the parts from ebay, craigslist or junk yard. Also, streetortrack.com is has great option for brakes but they are a little pricey, so wilwood or mustang steve will be your best bet.
  16. There isn't much extra room under the hood for sure. My car is a R code Mach 1 with the Midland Ross booster. Talk about a tight fit. There is some interference between the the rear of the shock tower and the front of the master cylinder when removing or installing the master cylinder. I believe that cascade effect is true. Good luck. Dave R.
  17. Dave R. , I'll keep PBBE in mind. I think because of my configuration I would need to do a slight mod to the z-bar to use the stock Bendix. It's really tight in there. 1969_Mach1 stated above how he had to mod his to get it to fit. Today I had some time to do some more internet reading and car measurements. I'm starting to think that the dimensions of the Tuff Stuff 2225NB could actually work. Rsanter in earlier posts said he put in one like the Boss 429 booster and it fit well. From what I can read I think that 2225NB is about the same as the Boss 429 booster. It's a 9 inch booster (wide) but only 3.75 inches long. This would put the master cylinder almost 3 inches further back towards the firewall. If nothing else, I would think I could pull the MC without having to remove the driver's seat, lay on my back and remove the booster nuts under the dash and then try to pry the booster to angle the MC so it can clear the shock tower! I must have replaced the MC 4 times over the years and it has never been any fun. I'm wondering if anybody here can jump in if they have any experience or knowledge with replacing the brake booster with those 9 inch Boss 429 style ones like the Tuff Stuff 2225NB for example. By the way, I now do think the clutch linkage rod will fit ok with that style booster, since Boss 429's came in 4 speeds. Ed
  18. I have a 69 convertible, 351w, 4 speed and power steering. I use the ceramic Patriot long tubes headers. #H8401-1. Fairly easy to install, even for a 4speed and steering setup. Made a world of difference that I could feel. If you order from advanced auto and use the 20 or 25% promo code, it will take off about $90 bucks for a total of about $320 for a pair of ceramic long tubes.
  19. My 69 Mach 1 with a 351W has the original Bendix booster, 4sp trans, and a Borgeson power steering box. The original Z-bar swings a little bit under the brake booster when the pedal is up. Once you modify the Z-bar to fit over the Borgeson power steering box it will usually hit the Bendix brake booster. I had to also modify (lengthen) the rod from the Z-bar to the pedal a little so the modified Z-bar would not need to swing under the Bendix booster. I was a little concerned about altering the range the Z-bar would rotate in, but the clutch works fine and pedal feels the same as before. I see now that Opentracker Racing sells modified Z-bars for the Borgeson conversion on 4sp cars. Whether it interferes with the Bendix brake booster I don't know. All-in-all, if I had to do this conversion again on a 4sp car with power brakes, I would leave the stock steering box in it and live with no power steering.
  20. The people at Power Brake Booster Exchange get my vote. They fixed a booster for me last fall. This booster was purchased from a vendor known to us on the forum. The vendor bought it as NOS and sold it to me as such. To shorten the story, unable to make the power assist work I finally sent the booster to PBBE. They fixed it and returned the broken part that they found inside. I had the booster back in a week. HIGHLY recommend them for your booster needs. By the way, the broken piece had a poor attempt to repair done on it. So much for NOS. Dave R.
  21. Marti report I modeled the framing and interior layout in SolidWorks several years ago as I was redeveloping my plans for the car. Not 100% accurate but useful nonetheless. The rear frame rails from S&W Racecars tacked up.
  22. Yes I did Danno. I will let the new owner know when I sell it. Thanks
  23. Yes, thanks for being more accurate. That is the picture and wire that I am referring to. In the instructions that came with the PA Performance alternator, it says to wire the green/red wire (from their alternator connector) to a 12V ignition source. This is different than your described wiring. I've wired mine according to your illustration, however this difference confused me a bit. I don't know why PA's instructions say to use the 12V ignition source (for it's green/red connector wire) rather than the Field output of the regulator, so thought I'd mention it here.
  24. FYI, just in case you were thinking of clear coating it to preserve it, dont do it. it doesnt work. I tried :-)
  25. I took and painted a hard piece of rubber with chrome paint and rolled the edges in it to keep from overlapping the sides like a brush would do. Most of the chrome was still there I just had to touch up a few edges.
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