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  1. Today
  2. I think that's how many it takes to get the driver side control arms and spring off.
  3. I would use either of the 2.87 gear trannies because they have a numerically lower first gear, so it is actually usable because you can go faster than 6 mph before you have to shift. A 3.27 or or numerically higher first gear is good for steep hill climbing or a lame V8 or even lamer 6 cylinder engine. T5 Z SPEC . . . . 2.95, 1.94, 1.34, 1.00, 0.63 TKX . . . . . . . . . .2.87, 1.89, 1.28, 1.00, .068
  4. when i tighten the gauges to the metal dash through the printed circut board all posts read 14.5 ohms. when i have the gauges loose they will read u/l. can i put 2nd nut under the printed circut board to tighten the gauges and then put circut board on top to try and center the posts better? with the printed circut board taped out of the way i can tighten up the posts and they stay o/l ohmes on booth gauges. put the gauges together afew more times . attched to the car it did not draw the volts.iwill hope it is working. big thanks for your help!
  5. In the center console cup holders, of course! Oh, and under the seat when the car with the flashing blue lights follows you.
  6. 1. From the metal housing to the gauge posts? 2. Again- from where to where? With the ohmmeter leads touching each other what does it read? And when they are separated it reads u/l? 3. You'll need to find someone familiar with the assembly. I've never had mine apart, but have read many cases where a post contacts the metal housing and shorts out. 4. From the metal housing to the gauge posts?
  7. Yesterday
  8. Congrats. Just so you know, the reason that one was pricy is it comes with the illuminated switch option. This only came with the visibility group option package and not all (or even most) Mustangs got it. It should plug in to your existing harness and your switch will light up with the parking lights. Keep us posted on the build! Oh, BTW, I like the Boss 351 poster on the garage wall :)
  9. nice tip on using the tape to help make sure you are placing it in the right place.
  10. when i tighten the gauges to the metal dash through the printed circut board all posts read 14.5 ohms. when i have the gauges loose they will read u/l. can i put 2nd nut under the printed circut board to tighten the gauges and then put circut board on top to try and center the posts better? with the printed circut board taped out of the way i can tighten up the posts and they stay o/l ohmes on booth gauges.
  11. I have a TKO600 with a 064 5th gear with 3:50s and my RPMs are around 1900-2k at 65 mph, I dont think 068 5th gear would make a difference.
  12. Same but how would it work with a 3.50 rear
  13. Magnum 500 wheels 15x7 in Front and 15x8 in rear from Summit (best price at the time) Cooper Cobra Tires are '235/60x15 in front and 245/60x15 in rear from Discount Front Disc kit from CSRP Rebuilt power steering from Chocko Suspension package from OpenTracker (I did the UCA drop and used the updated alignment specs) 1" drop template 1/4" Poly coil spring insulators 560 1" drop coil springs 1 1/8" front sway bar kit Roller spring perches Standard Upper arms Standard Lower arms Strut rod bushings Steering kit with roller idler arm for P/S KYB Front shocks Grab-A-Track rear shocks Black export brace (not installed) Black Monte Carlo bar .. curved Camber kit (not used) 4.5 Mid eye 1" drop leaf springs with new U-Bolt, front eye bolt and rear shackle kit
  14. Disconnect the fuel gauge. Use an ohmmeter from chassis to each gauge post- it should be infinite ohms. If it isn't then check that the gauge posts aren't touching the panel and adjust its position if necessary. There is a possibility that the gauge has a short to chassis, in which case you need a new gauge. The line that runs to the fuel sender may have a short to chassis. Disconnect it at the tank and gauge then test with the ohmmeter from chassis to the wire- it must have infinite ohms. Lastly, it could be a short to chassis in the fuel sender.
  15. i got it down to the fuel gauge is drawing the juice. i get 12.3v to ivr with 5v coming out with all gauges unhooked. then conected oil &temp gauges stayed at 12.3 v .I diconeceted fuel gauge with oil and temp hooked up ,stayed at 12.3v to ivr. what do i do with fuel gauge.
  16. Nice, What did you use for the storage hatch?
  17. Looks good. What are your suspension mods? Tire size and offset?
  18. I don't understand what you are doing or what all of your questions are Chris Straub can make a custom cam if you want. I would also run around 10" of 3" tube off the back of your headers before you sleeve it down to 2.5.
  19. can you provide photo of the lines and how you are connecting them?
  20. Last week
  21. Yes a section of the frame (about 12”) had to be reshaped to match the wheel tub.
  22. The only way to repair a bad pin at the ignition switch connector itself is to replace the connector with pigtails. You can't just remove the pins (bad design for sure!).
  23. I say TCET18084 would be great for anyone running 3:50+ rear end gears and for TCET17765 would be mainly for daily use
  24. IM HAVING TROUBLE WITH PUTTING NEW TRANSMISSION COOLING LINES ON.....I HEAR THEY ARE THE SAME FOR ALL C-4 SIX CYLINDERS BUT ONE LINE SEEMS TOO SHORT...... ED
  25. What is the rest of your setup, motor, gearing etc? Like 1969_Mach1 said, OD is how you want to drive, but I would think also on your setup. I have the standard TK600 similar to the 17765 with the lower OD gear. But I am mainly a highway cruiser and with a big block, plenty of low end grunt if I need to get things moving.
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