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  2. Yes we are excited how well it turned out.
  3. Yes ' clocking ' the plugs is a bit of time and effort. Usually reserved for the track for that elusive tenth of a tenth. Brian
  4. Today
  5. I just ran into this today, and am wondering what others think. The story is that if you point the ground strap 2-3* towards the exhaust valve (from dead center between the valves) that you will get slightly smoother Idle and better efficiency. Mark down the length of the porcelain on the open side of the strap and use copper crush washers to align it as needed. This seems like a lot of effort.
  6. What parts do you need? I could probably part with some.
  7. Ok, here is some very good info on thick power steering fluids from the oil geeks at bobistheoilguy forum. They post several oils that are thicker than atf. The valvoline max life and lucas ones are most likely available at most auto parts stores. Wally world may have the valvoline one as well. https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3475385/1
  8. Earlier today and yesterday lots of spam/hack crap. Thanks for the quick clean up. Brian
  9. If your hoses and exhaust are stock, then that is not the problem. The fluid will get hot anyway from various factors, but it certainly sounds like a thicker oil would help in your case.
  10. Exciting day yesterday as we stopped by and got a first look at the car after paint on the way to drop my oldest son off at college. WOW! What a nice job by Richard Vickers and his guys at Dark Forest. Get to bring it home next week.
  11. My power steering is effective when car is cold but after it gets hot it's almost non-existent at low RPM's. I have to raise the RPM's and left-foot brake to get any assist. Is it simply an issue of the hoses being too close to the manifold?
  12. The observation from the OP that a feeler gauge could be slid along between the the Edelbrock manifold and intake gaskets on the alloy heads while it was correctly torqued in place would suggest the Edelbrock had been machined.
  13. Yesterday
  14. Yeah, I like my chrome also :)
  15. Painless cirkit boss fuse block. PN#70217.. $75 shipped. Redline lumtronix headlight relay kit for 1969 mustangs.. $45 shipped. Bosch tachometer.. $15. multiple metal fans,
  16. They will look great with the dark paint, I'm glad they did not go with those awful black wheels.
  17. The owner dropped off the new tires and wheels
  18. I thought it was something more simple like a slightly different intake port location on the imported GT40 clone cylinder heads. I will add, I have tried many intakes on the 351W in my 69 Mach 1. The Edelbrock Performer RPM and Torker II both sat down lower than the Weiand Stealth that is currently installed. They all sealed just fine, but the fitment was a little different. In the end, of all that I tried the Weiand Stealth provides the best performance for a street driver. At least for my motor, trans, and rear axle combination.
  19. Glad it wasn't me that was confused, and between me, you, and 1969 mach 1, we figured out the mystery behind your taller than stock weiand intake, so one mystery solved. If you are curious, I can tell you how to easily determine reasonably closely how much your heads were milled, because I also ran the cylinder head rebuilding department for a local high end shop for a while and rebuilt countless Ford and Chevy heads as well as BMW, Porsche and Mercedes heads etc, and determining how much stock heads have been milled is obviously something that most people that have less experience in this area can't do, unless they happen to find the info by doing an internet search or something. As far as the top of the ports on your chinese heads being .200" higher than the ports on the stock heads are, this is absolutely no indication that your stock heads were milled at all, thereby lowering the ports, which again, an experienced person would know. The ports in your chinese heads should be significantly lager than the ports in your stock heads anyway, and they most likely did in fact, make the top of the ports higher than a stock windsor head, so there is no "smoking gun" evidence there either that suggests the stock heads were milled at all, although my guess is that they have been. In addition to this, if they had been milled a lot and the intake had been milled a lot to match them, as one person here suggested several times now, you likely never could have even bolted the intake up unless the bolt holes in the intake were enlarged, because when heads or blocks are milled, it moves the intake bolt hole in the heads inward, and I have in fact run into this exact problem a few times. Also, if the intake bolt holes in your chinese heads are in the correct location, and the bolt holes in the intake lined up well with them and those bolt holes were not enlarged, it strongly suggests that your intake was milled very little, if any at all. I may also have a stock 351 intake in my 54' trailer of Mustang parts that I can measure then give you a dimension of that you can compare to your eddy intake to determine if it has been milled, and if so, approximately how much it has been milled. Your block may have been milled as well which hasn't been mentioned, but even if both the block and the heads were milled, the combined amount would still be far less than 200".
  20. I would grab that if I was anywhere near close.
  21. Your original heads had probably been milled by some unknown amount ,certainly not .200" but a substantial amount none the less in the past, for whatever reason (raise the compression, bad machinist, who knows.) Whatever it was cut, it was much more the a light surfacing and this in turn moves the position the inlet manifold bolt hole inwards , so then the standard Edelbrock manifold bolt holes would no longer line up with the corresponding holes in the heads, and so the manifold would have to be cut as well to allow it to sit lower in the valley to allow the manifold bolt holes line up again. This would explain the loose fit of the Edelbrock manifold in the valley when you fitted the alloy heads (returning it to stock bolt hole locations) and the Edelbrock now not quite covering the inlet ports of the new heads. Machining of the original heads would make the inlet ports on the aftermarket head appear to be situated higher from the deck compared to the original milled head. In my 47 years of working on cars I have seen this a couple of times and it would be easy to see why someone with lesser experience would become confused. Your on the right track now and I wish you the best of luck with the rest of your build.
  22. https://shop.mustangstofear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5_42_195&products_id=299&zenid=atglsrqui6jlk9gnbnjtiqqip1This is what we use on the rear. For the front these are built into our jack/ pad. On a stock front end just go around the lower control arms.
  23. The best point is something that will not move up and down when you go over a bump, so the tires are the best point along with the diff housing and the front lower control arms. You don't want to tie it to the body because the straps will come loose when the suspension compresses on a bump.
  24. Before twisting of any kind. I think I would try adjusting the striker inward a little. Maybe that will get it close enough. Isn't the typical method, adjust the door to fit the quarter panel and rocker, then adjust the fender to fit the door?
  25. Ok, since it is not hard to shut, the door rubber "should" not be causing a problem, which just leaves adjusting the panes and as a very last resort, trying to twist the door.
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