Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Yesterday
  2. How old is the carb? When was the last time it was rebuilt? I had a 2 barrel on my old engine and the accelerator pump was gone so when I pressed the accelerator the carb would open but there was no burst of fuel added to go with it and it would die. I suspect this might be your problem. Do you have fuel leaking from the accelerator pump area? Also I think it should be done with the car in gear and on the brakes for an automatic car.
  3. I have an edlebrock on my 69 and after 10 years of light driving (maybe 5k miles) i finally rebuilt it. It was surging at idle and the new rebuild (genuine edlebrock) did the trick. I have a Holley 2 barrel on another project and with the recent change in seasons here in TX it will drive fine one day and then will stall at lights the next day. My new mustang friend has a 69 mach 1 with a holley (dont know anything else about it). He had it rebuilt by a local shop shortly after he bought the car and he drove it 30 miles home. I think that went on for a little while but this spring, after sitting for a while, similar issue....will idle fine but then dies when he puts it in drive. Yesterday, went over with my vac gauge and timing light to help out. Let the car warm up, it was mid 80s and it idled fine. Was a little high so I adjusted to 850 and we put it in R and it didn't stall or anything--sat there at 650 rpm for quite a while (he also doenst have brakes but that is another story) until we put it in park and called it fixed. Not a carb expert and definitely not a holley expert but do these need to be tweaked as the seasons change more than say an edlebrock (again I am in TX we only have two seasons).
  4. Guys! its been a while since i have done much to my 69--just driving and enjoying her. Made a friend with a neighbor who has a new to him 69 mach 1. It needs sail panels (along with other stuff) and I am glad to see that these are still available. Going off memory here but seems like the original sail panels had to be installed with rear glass out? How do the fiberglass ones install?
  5. It looks like they are assault racing roller rockers for small block ford ,I am thinking with the fireball cam I want to use it may be a good idea to go with the 7/16 studs
  6. I was given a set of roller rockers for small block ford but they are 7/16 stud ,to use them I would have to replace the studs in a set of RPM heads ,that would mean drilling out and retreating the stud bosses to except the 7/16 studs
  7. Last week
  8. I’m installing QA1 front coil over shocks & rear shocks. Both front & rear shocks are double adjustment. I’m starting the rear compression at 6 clicks to start with & rebound at 5 clicks. The fronts are 6 on compression & 5 on rebound. What’s everyone setting there’s at?
  9. You don't know how long I searched ,I lost the specs sheet so I had to search the cam first then the heads then the springs
  10. Looks like I found the springs I need ,direct match for the crane cams 363841 fire ball solid lifter cam
  11. I want to buy a set of Performer RPM heads,the listing say hydraulic flat tapets only ,I want to run a solid flat tapet cam I have had since the 80s . I figure it is probably the valve springs . Is anyone running the RPM heads with a solid flat tapet cam and what did you have to do . It is a 69 351 windsor and also thinking about a 408 stroker kit .
  12. Motor mounts done Checked on block work, block is cleaned, decked, bored, mains align honed. Waiting on pistons, rods, rings, bearings. Working on right front apron/oil cooler mounting.
  13. Amatures! If you can't build atleast three cars and still have parts left over you are not doing it right!
  14. A lot of us have enough left over parts to complete a second car.
  15. Ok , I am wanting to run performer RPM heads ,all the listing's say hydraulic flat tappets only . I am guessing it is the valve springs that make the difference ,I am wanting to run a crane solid flat tapet cam I have had for a long time . What do I need to do ,change out the springs or is there a head set up for a flat tapet solid lifter cam ?
  16. So i installed the molded heater hose and lower hose. Had to trim them but they fit great. I used a straight 1/2" npt to 5/8 brass fitting. The upper radiator hose..... no bueno. It seems like it's too short and if I stretch it, it fits but I don't like making things fit that shouldn't. https://ibb.co/GvZ13Yk4 https://ibb.co/FbXRDtwW My thermostat housing has a 90* port that swivels and i ordered a upper hose for a 351w without ac. Got it from rockauto. Now I ordered a hose for a ac equipped car since it looks longer. If that doesn't work or if I don't feel like waiting for the new hose, I'll order a different housing with a angled port. I don't know how much money I've spent on this car on parts that I either didn’t use or didn’t work out like I wanted.... Oem 70 spindles with drum brakes, air gap intake, msd billet distributor, oem 9" rear, cobra front brakes, fuelab fuel pump and filters... there's plenty more that I can't remember or o was able to sell I'm sure. Can't wait for my next build when this one is running! Hahaha
  17. wow.. great pics.. thanks for sharing those. i just ordered 3 of those for my 69 and i had no clue how they worked.. this was only 12 years ago.. lol still relevant..
  18. well, my first thought at hearing about using padlocks i had to laugh.. but that actually makes sense..
  19. Copy that! I think i understand that.. The guy that told me about it tried to explain, and it was close to that, but he confused me a little.. he had a story of him buying the wrong one, and everything he read said he needed a custom one.. etc.. THANK YOU for that link!! Bookmarked that one.. i do have an edelbrock intake and carb.. so from that it sounds like i do need a custom one.. i appreciate your time.. sweet stang you have..
  20. Thanks a bunch, yours is pretty cool as well. copy that about the FMX
  21. When you punch it, the rod makes the trans downshift- otherwise it has disappointing acceleration. This is what mine looks like: https://www.kickdownrods.com/shop/1969-ford-mustang-351w-fmx-transmission-kickdown-rod
  22. Welcome to the forum, cool car. I'm not familiar with that product. I never had any issue with the stock parts. Even if you didn't have a kickdown rod, the fmx is made to downshift manually.
  23. okay, hello everyone, newbie to this forum.. not to forums in general though. was really into them years back, even moderated some on MF.. semi-newbie to my 69' mustang.. I've got a dumb question. My experience with transmissions involves taking it to a Transmission shop and picking up when they were done with it. lol.. My 69' has an FMX Transmission, and the guy I bought it from recommended me getting a Lokar KD-2FMXHT Hi-Tech Kickdown Kit for it. Can anyone explain what this actually does? is it critical? thank you for your time. Robb
  1. Load more activity


×
×
  • Create New...