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  1. Today
  2. Too late to turn back now :) Heck, from what I can see your quarters are in better shape than mine that were repaired. I hope you're quicker than me after I took mine down to bare metal, 17 years for me before I drove it again :(
  3. It's been a while since I posted an update, and a lot has changed! After sitting about a year and a half on the waitlist, my body shop is ready to start on the car. I stripped the car of every last panel and bolt, in preparation for sending it off to Xpress Metal Cleaning in Phoenix, AZ. There I had it acid dipped to remove everything but the steal. Next week it gets picked up and delivered to the body shop to start the real work! The car did look pretty good before the dip, and people would ask me, "Why are you doing this, the car looks great as it is!" Well, one look at the quarter panels after the acid dip is all I needed to know that I did the right thing! Once we have it back and can look at it in person, we'll determine of the quarters will need to be reskinned. Right now I'm thinking yes. Teardown begins! Loaded up for transport: Squeaky clean after the dip:
  4. Years ago a guy on another forum asked if I could reproduced a dealer bumper sticker for him. So he gave me the picture on the left of the one on his bumper and I recreated the image filling in the damgaed areas and we had them printed.
  5. A quick internet search and up pops a few leads about people associated with Warren - Anderson Ford past. These folks may be will ing to help you.. Before 1933 the dealership called "Johnson Motor Company" when it was bought by Warren Anderson and renamed Warren-Anderson Ford. Now the "Ford Warren-Anderson" company DBA Fritts Ford" is privately held/owned by Marie J. Fritts. Corporate Address: 8000 Auto Dr Riverside, CA, 92504-4118. Write her a letter asking for copies of the companies history. Worst that can happen is she ignores you letter or respectfully declines. What have you got to loose? Maybe Jim Johnson, an auto dealer most of his life and whose father, Harold Johnson was affiliated with the old Warren-Anderson Ford dealership in Riverside, Try contacting him, he may be able to help. These sold on eBay some time ago. Keep us posted and good Luck! There is another one for sale, but it is pricey! https://www.ebay.com/itm/374323536073?hash=item57276be0c9:g:ojMAAOSwp8BjWf0q&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAABAH4ARnhGNtXiaAiBUW74NJlKAiw4tHAD4JemMhNNrRJWhR3D9gMtygl64fS3Y4Z2XqKn9ZkddOmgZX9DKYlliG52mi9M0BkPqLujxx71Uluac%2FSxD4Q0TISqRnUacVtSksiOGkQ4xocOGN7vBwpfDbrJFkLwaVMsmxFjBYgF39xtQFgLEyZkre74Z4kf9V6nr1GvFC1r%2BLzToP5GwgwSBd%2B9yK%2FzdGkOqX2DNb5JiF%2BB9LPs4uj3eG%2BIK5ZtELhZbGExQJe6Enx%2BNy7kpchm9IPWoA9OTIppy3AqzmH18iiabCTh64mvOrSeekY1t%2FH1x67kqoPEiPo4e1PxdX%2FxOXk%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR9Tr17_hYQ
  6. Yesterday
  7. yep, I have this in my TKO600 aswell. np, happy to share the info! aint no way Im paying $40 dollars more, plus ship/tax for a shifter that's being resold. no offense to MDL, but the price gouging is insane.
  8. This is an all FORD original parts brake system? OK so probably take a look at the ' no resistance.'? Really sounds like a Master Cylinder failure. Inspect; brake push rod connections and in-out function. Brake booster pedal test (Shop Manual) and vacuum readings? Caliper pads are moving as well as the brake shoes? Poke around you'll get it. Brian
  9. Keep checking ebay for your plate frame. I had to in order to find one at a reasonable price. I bought mine years ago for $50, and when checking after you started this thread I saw where a guy is making aftermarket frames for half what I paid.
  10. No air in the lines, that I can tell. Solid bleed several times. Usually air in the lines feels squishy. The pedal goes right to the floor with no resistance.
  11. Sure sounds like you have air in the lines. Gravity feed works well for a one man job. I like and use a Motive pressure bleeder.
  12. Over the winter i hve been doing some work. One of the projects was replace the what were probably original rubber flex lines for the brakes. Last summer ( My first with the car) the brakes worked perfectly.. During the change I discovered tahat some P.O. had "spliced" the line to the rear brakes with a brass compression fitting. I relaced the line and installed a correct union and line. One line to the left front caliper was corroded so that was replace. That is all I changed. Now I cannot get any brake pressure. I have bled and bled brakes, good fluid flow, no leaks. The pedal goes to the floor and get a tiny bit of braking action near the floor. What am I missing. Everything worked fine before the change. Suggestions welcome
  13. I am with ya... I needed 3 beers after writing that darn post. Let me know if I can clarify anything. The video created by American AutoWire is a bit more generic and they use their wiring kit as a reference point. I still have the original Ford wiring harnesses in the car, so I created the diagram using the Ford wiring diagram as a reference point. It helps me keep things in context, because I will surely forget what I did a month later and have to spend time retracing my steps to refresh my memory.
  14. Been a while since posting. I have been copping some serious static from my wife for neglecting chores around the house so I took a weekend off to do some much-needed tasks like tree pruning, mulching gardens and pulling weeds. Let me clarify static - nothing is spoken or done, there is just this aura that emanates from her to me and the pressure waves go through your body. Y'all know what I'm saying. Progress so far has been one forwards, 2 backwards. The pulley for the Saginaw P/s pump arrived, but the offset was too deep and I couldn't use it. 96 bucks gone. Whilst waiting for the pulley to arrive, I hooked the power steer up and threw some fluid in it. The reason for putting fluid in it escapes me, as it is not ready to start, but lucky I did as the whole lot fell on the floor overnight. One reason was I didn't tighten the mount bolts on the rear of the can up, and as the bolts go into the reservoir the fluid found the path of least resistance. But, when tightening up the bolts I still had a leak. The interwebs seemed to favour the fact that as the kit was supplied with bolts and not studs like GM did, the seals behind the can were not sealing and leaking. So I started looking at studs. Down under, we get bent over by nearly every vendor and all I could find was a set for a Pontiac for 40 bucks. Plus freight. I found an old guy who did power steering and spent well over an hour in his shop. The first thing I learnt was Saginaw pumps are basic; when you pull the reservoir can off there are 3 seals that sit in recesses in the actual pump body to seal the reservoir. Well, lucky me, the two orings (square section seal actually) were ripped behind the mount bolts and that's what caused the leak. Next was the pumps supplied by Borgeson have some foreign matter in them and they are not clean. With new seals and a bit of hope I put the pump back on, put in about a half a quart of fluid and put a jug under it. After 2 weeks no red stuff so maybe I won that one. I am going to risk the smaller section pulley and hope it does not make life miserable. Next I got the driveshaft back. This is a whole new shaft with 1350 joints and a billet FMX yoke (which is what is used on a TKO, don't get ripped by buying a 'TKO' yoke). It's only money, but a weeks pay money hurts. The diff and axles went off to the diff guy for a rebuild, 3.55 gears and a True track, whilst the rusty wheel bearings will be replaced. I started to drain the housing of oil, and was not surprised at all when I felt chunks in it. Oh well, another amateur item in the 'rebuild'. So, I pulled the housing out to clean it properly. Along the way I will replace the brake pipes as they look original and have some corrosion on the ends. I hate tube nuts, they always seem to round off on me even with correct tube spanners. Whilst looking at the rear, I decided to take out the springs and get them reset and dropped. Good thing too, the front bushes were old and the clamps were all loose. A day later I have newly reset springs, no rattles and an inch lower than the day before. I think it will look how I want now, both tyres (tires) just under the guard lips. Next, the radiator. Rightly or wrongly I bought an ebay special radiator for it previously, which had clogged up with the crud in the old motor. This is 26" wide and quite tall - about an inch off the hood base) so are a big unit. As they are only $180 to buy, I bought another one. But when I go to fit it, they have a 38mm lower tank width (about 1 1/2") and a 60mm (or 2 3/8") top tank and no original clamp bracket will fit. I can space the original lower brackets out with rubber (or make up a new C bracket) but the top is stumping me. There's not enough material on the OEM bracket to straighten and re-bend to fit and the aluminium options here are not attractive. But, today in speaking with a work mate he has a small sheet metal folder so I may be able to knock something up on that. Mounting it on the side of the front panel is an option, but it needs spacer brackets which will look ugly, so I will try to stay with the upper and lower clamps. I then bought some 2.5" exhaust pipe to start making up a new exhaust. The shop had a pre-fabricated X pipe cheaper than 2 x 90° bends, so I grabbed that. But, the inlet and outlet are straight and not angled so I need to do some funky cuts to get them to line up. I left that for another day when I was in the mood. The plan for the exhaust is to stop it at the mufflers and use drop pipes. If it's too loud you're too old. Did some online shopping; new front spring bushes, front brake hoses with the correct brackets, red tracer wire for the reverse light wiring and a 90° cable end terminal to neaten up the starter motor cable, as the shorty headers won't allow a right hand terminal due to space. I put the steering wheel back on, to complete the dash. As I used a RH drive boss for the new wheel, the indicator cancel lugs were in the wrong place. I bit of fencing wire - true - and some precision measurements had it on the spare lug on the indicator switch and now my turn signals cancel at the same spot either way the wheel is turned. The registration ran out March 5, so I only have 3 months to have it inspected and re-registered without hassle.
  15. Phew. Super mind-bending day at work and just read this. I appreciate it, have not thought about keeping the NSS active but probably not a bad idea. The video is simples, nice easy bit of work. I'll digest it later when my brain is not telling to go to the fridge and take 3 beers in quick succession (like a Doctor says take some pills and call me later, beer fixes my issues)
  16. Last week
  17. I'll be following along. I've had a similar idea ever since my sticker disintegrated during the restoration, despite my attempts to save it. I'm fortunate that I've at least seen it and was able to photograph it. Coppola Ford was in Fairfield, Connecticut. You might try googling the dealership name for old newspaper ads, they often included the dealer's logo. If there's a local historical society, you can reach out to see if they have any old photos that might include a car or a shot of cars at the dealership. Good luck!
  18. Yes, I was referring to the sticker or emblem that was located either on the rear tail light panel or bumper that advertised the dealer. I had the same idea about a license plate frame and sure enough, there was one on eBay. $150 is a little steep though. Looks like I'll be spending some time on CAD to model a replica.
  19. Thank you for sharing. I'll need one when I change over to a tkx
  20. I would be concerned running it without the drive shaft yoke in place. While I like the idea I don't know enough about any damage it could cause or fluid loss. Thanks
  21. BTW, that is a good shifter. That is what I installed when I changed over the TKO600 a while back. It has a good feel and always shifts well.
  22. Not really. It's been too cold here to spray primer. We have everything mocked up, but I need to spray some inner surfaces before we start welding, so I am waiting on the weather to turn.
  23. I am in the market for another 69 mach 1 project and have been watching prices a good bit lately. I didn't see anything in the ad that said Mach 1 so I assume it is a sportsroof. Yes that is way to high I have seen sportsroofs in the last few weeks in this condition or better for around 12 or 13k. I bided on a 69 R code on ebay a couple of weeks ago a lot of body work already done and was in primer it needed paint and assemble and the interior restored. Had the 428 C block but not the heads (not original to the car but was a 69 date code that had been machined and all new parts just needed to be assembled. The 9 inch track lock was completely rebuilt and painted. I didn't see this ad on ebay until it had only a few hours left, I bided 25k on it and had the high bid for 24k. By it being on ebay and site unseen I got cold feet and pulled my bid the last few seconds to go. The reserve had been meet to, so it was mine and I chicken out. Turns out everything was legit, I'm still kicking myself.
  24. Nice pics. Looks like you might know what you're doing. You must be a dinosaur, who checks for the actual top dead center anymore? :)
  25. He is probably talking about the dealer name sticker alot of dealers put on the cars to advertise where you purchased the car. Dealer Name Decals Brushed Chrome Polyester (impactdealersolutions.com)
  26. I wouldn't run engine and trans with the drive shaft out because the transmission tail shaft would not have any support with the yoke out. May not hurt a thing but it really wouldn't tell you munch with the transmission tail shaft wobbling.
  27. While the driveshaft is down start the moter and check for vibration. In all the forward/reverse gears. Run it up to the usual vibration rpm's. Brian
  28. It's quite on this page :) My slooow progres on engine:
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