All Activity
This stream auto-updates
- Today
-
HaroldaLap joined the community
-
-
matexap543 joined the community
-
Sway Bars are easily found at your local pubs after drinking heavily...
-
Ign. switch light. The operation you describe is normal. Brian - Yesterday
-
Wow. Is that really how you want to come at this?
-
With my rebuild I used a 1 1/8 front and 3/4 rear as well as Shelby Drop. I found at high speed it oversteered a lot. Removed the rear bar and really happy with the result.
-
-
-
-
-
-
-
Old post....old problem! New to me..... Bigmal: LOVE your fix to hold that spring in place. Factory used a wimpy little plastic bushing.......they needed the bushing AND your clip to last!!!!! ThePoose: You screwed the Pooche here by not telling the rest of us the dimensions or even the part number of the ACE part you found...... :)))) Would have been terribly helpful sort of post...... Glad you found something.....now I need to drag my assembly into ACE and dig....... One more question...... How did you manage to get the spring back onto the shaft..... thread it in thru the front hole, or bend things to take the bits apart and put it back together again??? Cheers!!!
-
OK this car barely survived the 80's let alone the next 40 years being shuffled from one garage to the next to the next. 40 years ago I stored this car in my driveway while he went off to work in China..... It's not back in a different driveway of mine.....difference being now the car is mine!!! But WOW!!! What a mistreated car! This is a very early car from San Jose. Date on dash cluster was July of 68. Need to get door tag date....it's painted over....don't want to try and strip paint and ruin silk screening. Originally had an XXY black and gold series plate. (My old 68 XR7, also a San Jose car, March built I believe, had a XLH series black and gold plate) 302 automatic, with console (goners!) and power steering as the only options I can find were on the car. Not sure if fold down rear seat was an option or standard feature in the Sportroof model. The car started as the medium metallic blue color, very nice when fresh, but was color changed to British Racing Green and black interior...... SH*TTY paint job......lifting all over...... Seats are presently 67 lowbacks, originals are in boxes, all torn up from being left out in weather, and I have a set of Mach1 seats in not so perfectly nice at all condition, still in the very same boxes that I shipped them to my buddy back in about 1984-1988??? (Along with tilt steering conversion, power disc brake conversion, and a Mustang style hood scoop with lights....) The entire car has or did have loose fasteners on just about everything! Body, chassis, and interior!!! UNSAFE car to drive for a while.....my buddy fixed some with the chassis but that's it. I swear that the dash was taken apart, perhaps windshield replacement at some time....and ALL of the fasteners were dumped in a pile. Only 10% were reused in the wrong locations, and rest were all replaced with generic hardware store Phillips 3/4-1"" screws.....some got painted black. I SCOURED thru several containers of fasteners from several Cougars that I had dismantled over the years, 69 & 70, which I've picked thru working on various projects and this one was no different! I barely scratched together what I think are the proper screws to reassemble the dash inserts and the dash pad itself, and the associated outlying trim pieces. But I still have questions....about others AND the rear fold down seat! I haven't even begun to look at that yet, but I think 50% of the screws, fasteners, and latches, or catches are missing or falling apart....... Engine was rebuilt, but I really question quality of the job. I got it running after removing some distributor advance lock out device, replaced the cap/wires/plugs, installed an engine ground to body connection(!), found some used Flowmasters on a shelf for it (still needs regular tail pipes, new fuel tank and sender....and now she runs nicely! Just did a heater core and would have loved to post pic's but alas.....not yet! Also added a glove box light from a 69/70 Cougar XR7, and repaired horrible ignition pigtail wiring replacement plus atrocities committed against the under dash wiring harness, repaired radio wiring, but still need a 68/69 radio. While it was open, I added 69 front speaker wiring and tilt-away steering wheel harnesses and tucked them away for future use. I want to present questions and also wants in this post....... so here goes! IGNITION SWITCH LIGHT: When I pull light switch to first "parking lamp" position, the IGN SW Lamp turns on. I think it dims....but need to check when it gets dark. When I turn the lights on, switch full out, the IGN switch lamp goes out. IS THIS NORMAL MUSTANG THING? PRNDL SHIFTER BEZEL LAMP: Does this operate in both Park and Lights positions? Need to check when dark again..... FASTENER: STANDARD HEATER- what sort of fastener goes in the hole at the top of the heater box, bottom of the defroster duct, which holds the defroster vents in place to the top of the heater box? Screw or some sort of clip! If I could post a pic....would be nice. FASTENERS: What type of screws hold the top windshield header trim piece in place? Oval head Phillips with chrome or ??? finish??? Again, pics would be nice...... Mine are all D headed yet holes look tapered.... SHOPPING LIST: 1) Seat refurb kit 2) 7/8" Front Sway bar 3) Ash tray housing for NO Console. All you console converters..you've got one rattling around in your drawers, boxes, or hanging on a nail. You'll never revert.... my console is MIA don't want one. 4) 68-70 AM-FM Radio 5) Front speaker wiring in doors- Cougar will be best source. 6) Will reserve this space for more which is likely to come!!!! OK, I'll stop here for the day! Thanks for looking! Will update post as I roll....... Please feel free to message me via this board. I also haunt the other large Mustang site... Thanks for looking! Steve -
Isnt R for Race ..... -
I called them & found it. It’s called pinch on windlace. Said you need around 17ft . I’m ordering 18ft to be safe.
- 1 reply
-
- 1
-
-
JaneJensenmu joined the community
-
-
What’s the molding called that goes around the door opening? It in the pinch weld on the inside. It’s hard & forms to the pinch weld. I can’t find it on NPD
-
When I was building my 69 Mach 1, I planned on using a rear sway bar and had bought one. With a 1⅛ inch front sway bar, 245/40-18 in front and 255/45-18 on the back, I don't need a rear sway bar. My car is neutral thru pretty fast and tight corners. YMMV.
-
-
besaxik276 joined the community
-
Manual drum to power disc, what hard lines need to be changed?
fastmerc replied to Phoenix's topic in 1969-70 Technical Forum
WHAT TRIMMING ARE YOU DOING TO THE FIREWALL????????? No trimming anywhere needed unless you have the wrong parts! 69 booster should have a "crooked" input lever on it. 70 booster is straight. Pedal attachment point is different on each year, but if you have 70 booster and 70 pedal you can use them with no issues...... You may need to modify the "pedal hanger" to accept the booster. (Knock two giant nutzerts off...) YES, take it out of the car and do the work.....drop the steering column out...makes the job MUCH easier. Steve -
jmlay, Yes one of those buggers! Grill end to radiator support. Headlight bucket is not involved with this part..... Steve
-
A factory 15/16" (428 bar) up front and as big as a 1/2" bar out back was stock for most BB cars in 1970. Competition Handling Package...... These bars and an export brace on the shock towers will really surprise you in handling. It isn't so tight that you'll feel uncomfortable driving it.....feels flat but not brutally so. I Am looking FOR A 7/8" FRONT BAR for a small block build....... Quite a few 70's came with these and hopefully I can find someone that upgraded and hung the old one on the wall! Look into mid 90's Explorers for a rear bar that is fairly simple to adapt to these cars!!! Cheers! Steve
-
All, I came here tonite to post some questions about specific fasteners on the interior of a "garage find" Sportroof. I also had some pic's of some work that I did that would be welcome across many members.....glove box light addition, heater box refab and heater core replacement..... Guess not tonight! I think the ability to post pictures, albeit at perhaps a smaller size to help reduce storage costs (what else is there?) is probably one of the largest things that a modern website can do for it's posters! One of my first experiences with "pictures" was back in about 1999-2000 in the Netscape days.... I was trying to find out information about brake calipers on a sports car I was working on. Seems my car didn't have the "normal" pieces.....but they were a factory substitution. "If the parts fit...." The calipers were marked FIAT-GIRLING and were very odd three piston units. I asked my local Fiat guy about them, and he thought that they were used on a model which was not commonly imported into the US! Oh great. Well, this was in the early days of web boards..... everything was up serially.....no categories, subcategories......just a list of posts.... I searched and found what appeared to be a European group that followed this model car I sought info on. So I started a thread on looking for a rebuild kit for the calipers! Posted dimensions and descriptions, but had no ability to post pic's on my part. I hadn't jumped into digital photography yet. Once I had all of my info typed up I hit enter and ran off to do some work elsewhere in the building. Imagine my surprise, returning 10-15 minutes later, to find a response to my post, of a guy that had just rebuilt his calipers AND he posted a picture!!! WOW!!! At that point, all of my collector car world existed in my garage, Hemmings Motor News, and swap meets in Pleasanton, CA or Turlock.....Pomona down in LA. Well, NOW we have a way to spread the hobby all over the planet at our finger tips....... I'm thinking that "this is gonna change the way that we do cars...." Boy howdy did it!!! I eventually found a seal kit via a friend who owned a similar car in the UK, who lived about 10 miles down the road from the gent who bought out the "classic" Girling parts business, and he was more than happy to run over and get me brake parts.....AND he was coming to the US in a couple of weeks to attend a national show...... MAN WAS I STOKED!!!! HE brought me a tiny paper back with my seals and a couple of pistons, and after quickly giving him $300, I was set!!!! Now I not only could rebuild my rear calipers, but the front ones too....along with brake pads! Bring back the pictures! Words to not do our hobby justice. Kind regards, Steve PS I'd post a picture........but I can't! :)
- Last week
-
Another yes to pictures. Even the minor inconvenience of posting elsewhere is preferred to none. I visit far less frequently than I was. Not just because of the pics, but still. Yes, pics.
-
Yes, to be able to post pictures again.
-
pics, yes
-
I watched our local machine shop polish down the welds on a stainless steel table they were building ,that is when I decided I needed one ,you can get some fine detailed grinding with one ,just make sure to get the 3 M belts ,they last about 5 times longer than the cheap belts at harbor freight. I bought my mini belt grinder from harbor freight and it works great !
-
Oh really?
-
Yep. I thought they were a gimmick, until I used one. A must have for hard to get to areas.
-
Thanks for the help
-
Anya74kt joined the community
-
I use it for getting down in the rain gutter and inside the trunk drip rail ,but I love the roloc disks on a flat area used with a 90* die grinder . Those mini belt sanders are also great and you would be surprised what all you can do with those .
-
You really don't want to go bigger than 1 1/8 , they will rip the mounting brackets off the frame rails
-
A picture is worth a thousand ...oh hell, I just want pics back!
