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  2. Hello I am having a sale again for Memorial Day. Memorial Day Sale 10% off all orders on in stock items. May 19th thru May 27th. Enter coupon code MAY27 at checkout. www.vintageleds.com
  3. Yesterday
  4. Yes the 1653 is for automatic or z-bar. I got the 1655 which is for cable clutch.
  5. Last week
  6. Mach 1, you maybe right, I thought he was talking about the brake booster - which I highly recommend sending it in for a rebuild and not replacing. however, I've seen some rebuilders do both MC and booster so that still could be a thing. in regards to the MC, its probably cheaper to get a replacement online, like summitracing, napa, oreilly auto and getting shipped if none are local, he just needs to know his bore size and swap over the pushrod before he tosses the old MC. I do recall some stores use to sell rebuild kits for MCs back in the day, but I think its just cheaper to replace now. My other suggestion is for op try http://www.chockostangclassicmustang.com/ and see what he recommends he knows his OE brake/steering stuff.
  7. rwcstang, I assume copb8 was talking about his MC. So you think the rebuilders will have the parts for the MC even if NYPD doesn't? It's worth a shot.
  8. just rebuild your unit, send it to that company in the video or the one I linked, or find someone local. not hard to look up in google search engine, plenty of vendors that can rebuild your unit.
  9. Might be a bit late, but I've got JBA 1653's on my 351. Fit with original clutch+z-bar, worked with original power ram although very close clearance so I added a really thin shim to it to drop the ram a bit.
  10. Well, turns out both units that fit my car seem to be on the 'out of stock' and no know future availability. I've left them a message, so we'll see if there is any alternatives.
  11. Hi. I purchased a 1969 Short shelby hood from you eight or so years ago.It fit great. Car got hit. I need another one. Can you help?

    Thanks Steve

  12. I think thats the best route, aftermarket boosters don't last a year before failing again. Find a local rebuilder in Texas, you can usually ship them if they are faraway. I use these guys as they are local to me, but plenty of ppl ship it to them for rebuilds. Definitely worth the wait if you can't find a builder near you. Power Brake Exchange, 2870 Aiello Dr, San Jose Ca 95111 phone number 1 408 292 1305 https://pwrbrake.com/
  13. Wow, that was Soooo informative. Definitely going to go this route instead. Thank you very much.
  14. G'day everyone john from australia. firstly let me apologise as i'm sure this has been kicked to death. I couldn't find forum with the answer. i have a Mach 1 mustang 351 with a vintage air-conditioner. The car is concourse and i wish to keep it this way.I have removed the compressor as it was making a terrible noise. i wish to have the compressor rebuilt or replaced with one that looks identical. I have heard that there are places in the USA that can either completely rebuild your compressor or they can give you a new one and put the original badges from yours on there. All I need to know is somewhere that I can send to do this. Do you have a preferred person who can rebuild these compressors what do you recommend? I can get a new "York style" I have found one online. I have pictures here my original one (but couldn't up load even low res ones) but mine seems to have a bigger heavier flywheel than the new one that is "supposed to fit".. My preference is to have my old one rebuilt thank you in advance kindest . Can give me a place to send it or a place to buy the new one ? thanks John
  15. I know its a lot easier to just buy what you want than to rebuild, but with aftermarket parts what they are these days, personally I would try to rebuild the original MC, rather than buy another. There are lots of kits available from NPD: https://www.npdlink.com/1965-1973-mustang/brake-wheel/master-cylinder/master-cylinder-new-rebuilt, but not knowing any specifics about your car, you need to call them. I would never buy a new Power Brake Booster, preferring to get the original rebuilt, as the aftermarket stuff just doesn't fit or work properly. Watch these videos from WCCC on boosters; I think it will open your eyes: There are several places that do booster rebuilding: boosterdeweyexchange.com (recommended by WCCC) mwreman.com, Midwest Remanufacturing (recommended by renowned brake and steering specialist Chockostang) Karps Power Brake Service (recommended by GT289- ex Global West GM) Harmon Classic Brakes, has a descent website I hope this at least gives you a different perspective.
  16. gonna be tough with the brand, I bought it years ago but its a 24" 2 or 3 row I believe. for now, ill just do a prestone 50/50 since its already premixed and ill add a additive to help with cooling/lubricate the water pump. my go was driven CSP, but going to try VP Racing Cool Down Additive. VMF woodchuck helped I will also add a Sacrificial anode to help with electrosys.
  17. We have really hard water here so I use distilled water. The coolant type depends on your parts, any plastic in the system, aluminum or copper radiator, etc. Check your radiator manufacturer to see if they have a recommendation.
  18. I noticed my upper rad hose is swelling, so I figured a rad flush is in order. what coolant brand/ratio do you recommend? Livin in CA, temps around around 35-80+ depending on the season. Running 351w Man-o-war block made of nickel-iron-alloy AFR Aluminum heads and aluminum 24" Radiator w/ 13 lbs rad cap. also in regards to replacing the upper hose, do you add sealant at the water neck or leave as is? also, what water recommendations do you recommend? I've read distilled water is good/bad I have a disposable filtration system connected to my garden hose, would that work or should I just get the 50/50 mix and call it a day?
  19. I am using Master Cylinder# M1929 with my Bendix Booster#6945. Available at NAPA. NAPA also has the Midland style booster. Brian
  20. I used to get the whole unit through Napa but is has been several years
  21. My brake pedal got soft and then went to the floor in a very short period of time. I was fortunate to get it home and down my steep driveway without going through the front door. There is no fluid under the car so I assume the Master Cylinder is toast, and more than likely the booster as well. I'd like to buy something that's as close to stock as possible but is decent quality. It seems the Scott Drake stuff have really taken a beating in quality over the last few years. My car has stock power disk brakes up front, and drums in the rear. Can someone assist me in finding the specific parts I need? Thanks in advance.
  22. I installed that exact Alternator and haven't had any issues with my 70 Mach 1. I installed it as per the manufacturer's instructions but did it with an American Autowire harness. I don't have the car here at the moment, but to my recollection, you just install one wire from the starter solenoid to the alternator. I just use one v-belt and have had no issues on very limited usage of it.
  23. W00T I made an offer on eBay for a new set of JBA 1655 Ceramic coated and it was accepted. Mid Length/Shorty style that accommodates the cable clutch and should not require ram bracket relocation.
  24. LT dont hang that low, not like some 289-302s headers. Since 351w are a taller deck, they tucker under pretty well, I run an external clutch slave/fork from MDL and everything clears including the p/s drop, never had an issue. The only thing that hangs real low is the magndaflow exhaust kit, the mufflers will scratch first prior than the LT headers and I run SOT Front coilovers and 3link rear.
  25. Thanks, I'll look into these. How do the fit for ground clearance. I'm leery of long tubs and was thinking Tri-Y or Mid/Short Also, I really appreciate that you are responding with 351W applications, on another site and in Facebook everyone keeps telling me about their 302 headers.
  26. I run these on my 427w, https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hed-88308/make/ford/model/mustang/year/1969 I did have to use a drop bracket for the p/s setup, I highly recommend these heavy dutiy versions than the cheap ones scott drake sells as those will tear the frame eventually: https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/e5h21.html?a=GoogleProductSearch&sessionthemeid=26&srsltid=AfmBOorzfz3pRboxGCNDMK_5GMyl_bgodvJtNP4k9-UsJRaI89fhn4GVMfw
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