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  2. Just a suggestion, with metalic two stage paints, have seen instances where painting fenders, headlight buckets, and trim parts when they are not sitting in their "natural" position as they would be on the car, causes the metal flake in the paint to be effected by gravity. In another words, painting a headlight bucket by it laying down on a table, instead of hanging it vertically, gravity causes the flakes to to lay flat as the paint dries. When put on the car the paint reflects differently. That what happened on my 73 Mustang's Medium Copper Metallic when the hood trim was painted. You can see it if you look closely at the pics below...
  3. I recently replaced my dash lamps with LED, new circuit board and new voltage regulator. Gauges worked before. LEDs work - does that mean I have a good ground for everything else? Gauges do not work - Is this most likely new voltage regulator. Thinking of taking it out and putting old one back in. Thoughts?
  4. Yesterday
  5. I've got all the mechanical and electrical buttoned up (I think) Going to get some gas and bring it back to fill it up and start it. :)
  6. Rich, thanks! I will use the later model year set, and find some. I had a long discussion at the stop about paint on/off the car. The entire car will be assembled for final body seam alignment and fit up. Then the car will be painted assembled. The front fenders will have bedliner type paint on the inside. The trunk lid, cowl, stone deflector valences, etc will be painted off of the car. The reason for this is to ensure the final seam alignment and fitup can be done with body panels without the final top coat. Expecially with the way the Mustang hoods mount, it is almost a certainty that the hood will never go back to the right place if you remove it. It also allows the paint shop to totally mask my car only once, as the undercarriage and engine bay are done, and they will wrap the tires/wheels and mask the car off to the floor.
  7. Look too small to be the dowels from the block. They look like locating pins/dowels from the pressure plate. Do you have a manual trans in the car? Are these sheared off or smooth on the ends.....?
  8. RWC - What temperature thermostat do you have installed? On the Ford Contour, pretty sure the temperature sensor is in an assembly that includes the thermostat housing.
  9. If you're gonna be acting like that, do I need to change your screen name to Tuner?
  10. Really nice progress Ed. I don't envy you on the shoulder or video editing.
  11. I had rotator cup shoulder surgery last year after I was unable to sleep through the night because of pain. After physical therapy and all I'm back at it. New carpet, new seat covers, painted new package tray, LED dash lights and refurbished instruments, Bluetooth radio and installed a Classic Auto Air perfect fit AC system. I had big plans to do an install video on the AC but now I have all this video I need to edit and don't feel like it.
  12. I love these seats ,black leather with black swade insets but they are a bit hard to get into with the wrap around on the seat backs ,it doesnt give much but feels good when you are setting in them . Back seat has quite a bit of room also ,but those quarter sails are impossible to see around . I like the navigation but most of all i like the fact that it has dials for the radio ,heater and AC instead of the touch screen crap .they had installed Corsa exhaust ,quiet at an idle and normal driving but when you step on it you know it .i looked it up and that cost $2,000. It has factory 3:92 gears as part of the super track pack and it turns around 2200 rpms at 60 mph . it even has one of those new fangled BOOM BOOM radios ,you know the kind ,the kind that rattles your windows when they pull up next to you . On the way home my brother asked what that boom was coming from the trunk area ,i told him it was the sub woofers BOOM BOOM BOOM HAHA!
  13. Cool, just what is hoped for. A big thanks to you both.
  14. Here is a picture of the green wire with a black round female plug at the firewall. John is correct it is part of the harness that includes the wipers, tach wire, neutral safety switch, oil and temp sender wires, and PRNDL shifter light. The other end of the green wire should terminate near the airbox blower motor with a single square spade plug, along with a couple of other related green wires with square plugs.
  15. Here you go! This is looking under the dash at the bottom of the box!
  16. Removed the box from my daily driver just to take this photo for you p). Box is upside down on the photo and cable is not attached. Vacuum actuator on right side.
  17. Last week
  18. When the glove box is closed, you can see both levers (lever with cable and level with actuator) if you look above the foot well.
  19. Yes, I was trying to describe you where the marked arm is attached to. On the photo I referenced above, the cable goes over the shaft because of the angle of the photo. When the box is installed, the lever that you are asking about is 2 inches directly below the lever the cable is attached to.
  20. This isn't much help, and my spacious glove box is in the way at the moment.
  21. Last minute decision and had to get there fast ,got home even faster !
  22. And no phone call??? WTFresno? You called the last time you bought a car down here. Was it something I said, or that money I owe you? The Mopar looks real nice.
  23. It's not the cable I'm interested in, it's the vacuum actuator. I know there's only one other lever for the actuator to attach to, but I'd like to see a pic of it. I'd like to see what the marked arm in the pic below attaches to.
  24. Well i was in RPMs neck of the woods today in beautiful down town Bakersfield ,had to buy a new toy ! Now i am in no way a Chrysler guy but what the hell ! 2014 Challenger RT fully loaded ,remote start ,after market exhaust ,Stereo system,black leather with swade inset seats ,sport mode ,paddle shifter ,super track pack and runs like a scalded ape! Had to kick it on the way back just once ,stomped it to the floor as it hit third and roasted the tires.
  25. You can see where the actuator arm is attached to on photo above (kind of). See the wire/cable attached to the lever that activates the vacuum switch? Follow that wire/cable to the left of the photo. At the edge of the photo that wire/cable is going over the shaft of the lever the actuator arm is attached to. If the photo was about an inch or two wider, you would see the end of the actuator arm and the end of the lever it is attached to.
  26. I've seen some sensors location front/behind the cylinder head, I've seen some that are located on thermostat housing or on lower radiator hose like buckeye mentioned. however, my sensor is on the intake manifold. just did my contour fan conversion, I have the DD guages and DD bt fan controller. I set my fan to 190(first fan) and shut off at 185, my second fan goes on at 195 and shut off at 190 (electric fan). another plus to this DD setup if I used the bim i/o cable, both fans can shut off when Im going over 50mph to let air through and not cause any disruption with airflow. I may need to adjust the temps and relocate the temp sensor as buckeye mentions a good point, as I have noticed my e-fans at times consume some power and noticed the rpms/voltage would drop.
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