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  1. Today
  2. JD08

    Ever want to punch one of these guys ?

    Wait until he finds out fox body convertibles were just coupes with the top cut off and a little extra bracing underneath. He'll have an aneurysm.
  3. Here's another possible option. These were used on 69/70 BOSS 302's.
  4. shelbyshelby

    Door Prep

    Wanted update this thread in case it’d help anybody in the future. I have 3 sets of deluxe door panels. Only my original door panels line up to the lower holes. So the intel must be correct about the original installer using an awl to drive the holes at random is at least plausible. I’m guessing that’s why the new door panels aren’t pre-drilled in the lower location.
  5. Yesterday
  6. newstang

    69 Vert project

    Thanks for the contact.
  7. Actually stainless has a much lower thermal conductivity versus steel (a lot lower than aluminum). It's one reason people like to use stainless for headers as opposed to steel, because it doesn't transfer heat as well.
  8. Mike65

    69 Vert project

    Try contacting James at www.usedmustangparts.net @ Blue Ridge Mustang Classic Mustang to see if he has a 69 Coupe he could cut it off of. He is in Va. & I have dealt with him for parts for my Coupe before. I have also purchased sheet metal pieces from Troy on VMF, he is usually selling parts in the 69/70 parts for sale section there & goes by the profile title of 4280, he is in Oregon.
  9. Why not just use all rubber heater hose? Get the type with molded 90 degree ends where needed. By the time you have hose-stainless tube-hose plus all those clamps it won't look any cleaner, just different. Might be making more work than needed. Plus stainless conducts heat much faster than aluminum or steel so those tubes will get extremely hot. I ran my heater hoses along the right shock tower and strapped them to the export brace. It gets them off the motor so the motor looks a little less cluttered. I needed the type with a 90 degree molded end for the firewall end where they attach to the heater core.
  10. Midlife

    Door Prep

    Cable/Internet/phone service restored, but only for 3 days; now out since Saturday and no service techs available until a week from today! Bastards! This was like a strip tease...
  11. aslanefe

    1969 gauge cluster question

    Looked at the 1969 wiring schematics Mach1driver created; the brake light should not come on if the engine dies if no brake fault; it will come on only during start and go out in run.
  12. larryc94

    1969 gauge cluster question

    The brake warning light proveout circuit receives a ground when in the start position from the ignition sw. The warning light is powered in the run and start positions. If the pressure differential switch is activated it grounds the circuit and lights the warning light. The pressure differential switch is activated if you have a leak in the front or rear circuit or your bleeding the brakes
  13. Shep69

    1969 gauge cluster question

    I’m not sure Aslanefe. As it’s an auto once the motor starts it never dies until I shut it down. I will check it out .
  14. Not highly modified. Just... a bit modified. Actually, it’s getting closer to stock every day. Stock form had one line that was all rubber (went in the choke cradle) and one line that had a steel tube over the intake. I have an aftermarket carb now and don’t need the soft line for a choke anymore. So I wanted to run stainless hard lines in place of them. I think I’m gonna just get the molded elbows and leave it at that.
  15. Yes, the seal change was done while the tranny was still in the car.
  16. you must have a highly modified build? the heater hoses on mine are just the normal rubber type hose. in any case I've bent 1/2" stainless in a hand tube bender and that was pretty easy to do and they looked great. I have a 5/8 tube bender used for aluminum and it had longer arms, so likely it could do stainless also.
  17. aslanefe

    1969 gauge cluster question

    If the engine dies itself (without turning the ignition off) does the brake warning light come on?
  18. Ridge Runner

    WTB 69 Trunk corners/ tail panel mounts

    I will cut both sides a bit large
  19. Shep69

    1969 gauge cluster question

    My brake warning light goes out once the car starts.
  20. gordonr

    I Fried the Alternator Wiring Harness

    It also looks like your main engine ground should be mounted lower on the right side of the block and not on a painted bracket?
  21. gordonr

    I Fried the Alternator Wiring Harness

    It looks like your ground (blk/red) got a little toasty. Does the chassis ground on the back of the right head ok or is it hurt as well?Did your car crank easily?
  22. I am hooking up the heater at my son’s request. I want to do hard lines for the bulk of the engine compartment portion, knowing I will need soft lines on both ends. Question is, do I try to bend 5/8” stainless for 90 degree turns, or just get a molded 90 degree hose and use straight sections of tubing? I don’t have a 5/8” bender, so I would be doing the sand and heat trick while bending it around something with a 3” radius. I’m starting to think I would be better served with the 90 degree molded hoses. I donkt know if I can make successful bends in 5/8” stainless. Has anyone here done it successfully?
  23. Ridge Runner

    WTB 69 Trunk corners/ tail panel mounts

    It will prpbably be tuesday before i can cut them out ,i will cut big so you will have to trim as needed . Money order is easiest for me ,sholdnt be more than $15 for shipping . Send an address and i will ship them soon as i cut them out Jim Reeves 224725 ave 196 Strathmore Ca. 93267
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